Thursday, August 23, 2007
Friday, August 10, 2007
Tropical Fish And Its Aquarium Maintenance
Tropical Fish And Its Aquarium Maintenance
by: Low Jeremy
Tropical fish includes fish around the world living in tropical environments including salt water and fresh water species. They are popular fish in aquariums because of their bright colors. Tropical also refers to tropical climate wherein the climate is warm or moist all throughout the year integrated by abundant vegetation.
Aquarium is an enclosed clear-sided container made of high strength plastic or constructed glass for keeping or raising animals and plants for research and observation. The ecosystem of the species is copied on smaller scale controlling environmental factors.
Tropical fish being put in the aquarium should be properly taken care of by regular monitoring of the fish and aquarium conditions by checking the waters for bacteria, parasite or fungi occurrences. There are ways on how to determine if the tropical fish are sick.
-Fish scales inspection. Examine for any discoloration, growths or wounds. Scales that is missing is a fighting indication.
-Observation of the fish respiratory rates. Slower or faster rate than normal is a sign of problem.
-Fish eyes clarity checking. Blood or cloudiness should not be present.
-Observation of the fish abnormal behavior such as unusual swimming pattern or sluggishness.
-Veterinarian consultation for any fish abnormalities being observed.
Aquarium serves as the new habitat of your tropical fish so it should be maintained regularly. The procedures are easy protecting the fish and plants lives.
-Regular checking of the tank to ensure that dying or dead fish is not present.
-Observation of all the fish individually for behavioral patterns familiarization so that it is easier to determine a sick fish in the future.
-Feed your fish with one-day intervals using diet variations.
-Replace the evaporated water on the tank with dechlorinated water.
-Once a week, removed 5 to 10 percent of the tank water replacing it fresh dechlorinated water. Unwanted chemicals in the tank are diluted helping the tanks internal environment similar to tap water.
-Algae scraping from the walls of the tank done once a week.
-Filter pads checking every two weeks cleaning or replacing them if necessary.
-Water testing done every two weeks. Water change is done after one day.
-Ammonia, nitrate, pH levels or nitrite checking done every two weeks.
-Drain off the debris from the gravel done once a month.
Always keep track the chemical contents of your aquarium and schedule maintenance.
by: Low Jeremy
Tropical fish includes fish around the world living in tropical environments including salt water and fresh water species. They are popular fish in aquariums because of their bright colors. Tropical also refers to tropical climate wherein the climate is warm or moist all throughout the year integrated by abundant vegetation.
Aquarium is an enclosed clear-sided container made of high strength plastic or constructed glass for keeping or raising animals and plants for research and observation. The ecosystem of the species is copied on smaller scale controlling environmental factors.
Tropical fish being put in the aquarium should be properly taken care of by regular monitoring of the fish and aquarium conditions by checking the waters for bacteria, parasite or fungi occurrences. There are ways on how to determine if the tropical fish are sick.
-Fish scales inspection. Examine for any discoloration, growths or wounds. Scales that is missing is a fighting indication.
-Observation of the fish respiratory rates. Slower or faster rate than normal is a sign of problem.
-Fish eyes clarity checking. Blood or cloudiness should not be present.
-Observation of the fish abnormal behavior such as unusual swimming pattern or sluggishness.
-Veterinarian consultation for any fish abnormalities being observed.
Aquarium serves as the new habitat of your tropical fish so it should be maintained regularly. The procedures are easy protecting the fish and plants lives.
-Regular checking of the tank to ensure that dying or dead fish is not present.
-Observation of all the fish individually for behavioral patterns familiarization so that it is easier to determine a sick fish in the future.
-Feed your fish with one-day intervals using diet variations.
-Replace the evaporated water on the tank with dechlorinated water.
-Once a week, removed 5 to 10 percent of the tank water replacing it fresh dechlorinated water. Unwanted chemicals in the tank are diluted helping the tanks internal environment similar to tap water.
-Algae scraping from the walls of the tank done once a week.
-Filter pads checking every two weeks cleaning or replacing them if necessary.
-Water testing done every two weeks. Water change is done after one day.
-Ammonia, nitrate, pH levels or nitrite checking done every two weeks.
-Drain off the debris from the gravel done once a month.
Always keep track the chemical contents of your aquarium and schedule maintenance.
Wild Animal Endangerment
Wild Animal Endangerment
by: Emma Snow
Wild animals are beautiful creatures with varying sizes, colors, and habitats. Although some can be seen in zoos, the place they are meant to be is in their own environment. Unfortunately, animals such as whales, panda bears and sea otters, are not always safe in these places and are dying out. What is causing their threat of extinction? Several factors have an influence on this growing problem.
Pollution
Because animals are all intertwined on the food chain, contamination of a water source that a species drinks for example, will not only effect them, but the animal that eats them as well, having the ability to cause cancer and other deadly diseases. If a mother drinks toxins, they become apart of her milk and she passes on those toxins to her babies. Because the off spring are considerably smaller than the mother, these chemicals and toxins will have a greater negative impact on them. Among these problems is a shorter life span, directly effecting the time they have to reproduce and multiply their species, not to mention the damage the pollutions have already caused on their systems and ability to thrive.
Contamination of water due to oil spills is another large problem. Because oil and water do not mix, and oil floats to the top and spreads easily and quickly, it is that much harder to clean up. Oil spills may be due to natural disasters, such as hurricanes, or can happen by people who do not want to dispose of oil properly and dump it into the ocean to get rid of it. Birds can be covered and will not be able to fly because of their feathers being covered. Oil covers sea otters and coats their fur, covering the air bubbles in their fur which are there to help them stay warm in freezing waters. Due to the oil coating these bubbles they die of hypothermia. So many different animals dying in mass quantity from oil spills also contributes to animal endangerment.
Decrease of Natural Habitat
If there are constant changes in the environment of a species, then there is subsequently constant changes in species habitat. Changes in the environment, of course, happen naturally. However, when this happens animals adapt because the changes are small, over a period of time. When humans make the changes they are more drastic and immediate. People can take out a forest in a matter of days, not giving occupants time to move to a new location in a time frame that is adaptable. To illustrate this point the habitat of the giant panda will be examined. A panda eats around 40 pounds of bamboo a day. This is due to the low nutrition of the plant and the inability of the panda to digest it. Large amounts must be consumed to get the necessary nutrients for the bear. After a bamboo plant flowers, it dies and does not regrow for another 10 years or so. If there is not another species of bamboo in that area the Panda then needs to move to another region which has bamboo still in season. Due to human activities such as farming, mining and road building quickly destroying the plants they eat it is difficult for the pandas to move to another forest to find the bamboo they need quickly.
Hunting, Fishing and Whaling
One of the greatest effects on water animals, such as whales, is exploitation. Exploitation is decreasing a particular species faster than nature is able to replace the population. Whaling has been a large contributor to the decrease of whales in the ocean. This unrestricted hunting or whaling purpose was for their skin, fur, teeth, meat or other reasons. Although some organizations, such as the International Whaling Commission (IWC) have been established, as well as laws and regulations, people do not always follow these laws and whales are still hunted. Animal parts make a lot of money and illegal activities pursued for the money that people can make. In Japan whale is still a popular dish and hunted for consumption. Along with whaling other fishing takes place. Large nets for fishing can entangle species they are not meant to capture, nor desired to capture. These lives are lost as a negative by product of mass commercial fishing efforts. The large commercial fishing takes out so many animals, so quickly that they can not replace themselves.
Human carelessness seems to be the overriding influence on all these factors. As people are concerned about the impact that their choices and actions make on wild life, their habitats and environments will be protected. People taking precautions will effect the environment for humans and wild animals alike.
by: Emma Snow
Wild animals are beautiful creatures with varying sizes, colors, and habitats. Although some can be seen in zoos, the place they are meant to be is in their own environment. Unfortunately, animals such as whales, panda bears and sea otters, are not always safe in these places and are dying out. What is causing their threat of extinction? Several factors have an influence on this growing problem.
Pollution
Because animals are all intertwined on the food chain, contamination of a water source that a species drinks for example, will not only effect them, but the animal that eats them as well, having the ability to cause cancer and other deadly diseases. If a mother drinks toxins, they become apart of her milk and she passes on those toxins to her babies. Because the off spring are considerably smaller than the mother, these chemicals and toxins will have a greater negative impact on them. Among these problems is a shorter life span, directly effecting the time they have to reproduce and multiply their species, not to mention the damage the pollutions have already caused on their systems and ability to thrive.
Contamination of water due to oil spills is another large problem. Because oil and water do not mix, and oil floats to the top and spreads easily and quickly, it is that much harder to clean up. Oil spills may be due to natural disasters, such as hurricanes, or can happen by people who do not want to dispose of oil properly and dump it into the ocean to get rid of it. Birds can be covered and will not be able to fly because of their feathers being covered. Oil covers sea otters and coats their fur, covering the air bubbles in their fur which are there to help them stay warm in freezing waters. Due to the oil coating these bubbles they die of hypothermia. So many different animals dying in mass quantity from oil spills also contributes to animal endangerment.
Decrease of Natural Habitat
If there are constant changes in the environment of a species, then there is subsequently constant changes in species habitat. Changes in the environment, of course, happen naturally. However, when this happens animals adapt because the changes are small, over a period of time. When humans make the changes they are more drastic and immediate. People can take out a forest in a matter of days, not giving occupants time to move to a new location in a time frame that is adaptable. To illustrate this point the habitat of the giant panda will be examined. A panda eats around 40 pounds of bamboo a day. This is due to the low nutrition of the plant and the inability of the panda to digest it. Large amounts must be consumed to get the necessary nutrients for the bear. After a bamboo plant flowers, it dies and does not regrow for another 10 years or so. If there is not another species of bamboo in that area the Panda then needs to move to another region which has bamboo still in season. Due to human activities such as farming, mining and road building quickly destroying the plants they eat it is difficult for the pandas to move to another forest to find the bamboo they need quickly.
Hunting, Fishing and Whaling
One of the greatest effects on water animals, such as whales, is exploitation. Exploitation is decreasing a particular species faster than nature is able to replace the population. Whaling has been a large contributor to the decrease of whales in the ocean. This unrestricted hunting or whaling purpose was for their skin, fur, teeth, meat or other reasons. Although some organizations, such as the International Whaling Commission (IWC) have been established, as well as laws and regulations, people do not always follow these laws and whales are still hunted. Animal parts make a lot of money and illegal activities pursued for the money that people can make. In Japan whale is still a popular dish and hunted for consumption. Along with whaling other fishing takes place. Large nets for fishing can entangle species they are not meant to capture, nor desired to capture. These lives are lost as a negative by product of mass commercial fishing efforts. The large commercial fishing takes out so many animals, so quickly that they can not replace themselves.
Human carelessness seems to be the overriding influence on all these factors. As people are concerned about the impact that their choices and actions make on wild life, their habitats and environments will be protected. People taking precautions will effect the environment for humans and wild animals alike.
Natural Arthritis Care for Your Dog
Natural Arthritis Care for Your Dog
by: Brigitte Smith
Rimadyl was hailed as a wonder arthritis treatment for pets when it came on the market in 1997. Over the next 3 years, due largely to an aggressive marketing campaign by the manufacturer, Pfizer, Rimadyl was prescribed for 5 million dogs.
But it hadn't been thoroughly tested. According to statistics compiled by the FDA (Food And Drug Administration), in 1997 alone, Rimadyl was implicated in 30 per cent of all veterinary adverse drug reaction reports received! Side effects included gastrointestinal, renal and liver problems, and death. Within those first three years, 10,000 dog owners had reported an adverse reaction to Rimadyl, and there were at least 1,500 deaths or euthanasias attributed to the drug. And it is generally accepted that many adverse reactions are not reported, so the real statistics are likely to be significantly higher.
You may remember the Rimadyl ads depicting older dogs bouncing around like puppies. Those dogs were the lucky ones. And of course, the success stories were many, and they were amazing. But you no longer see those Rimadyl ads, do you?
Is there a realistic alternative to Rimadyl? One that provides such a marked improvement without the possible side effects? Or should you take the risk that your dog won't develop side effects to Rimadyl?
The good news is that Glucosamine, a natural sugar produced by the body and found in some foods, plays an important role in the production, maintenance and repair of cartilage. Supplementation with Glucosamine can therefore provide not only the pain relieving effects of Rimadyl, but also helps maintain existing healthy joint tissue and aid in rebuilding healthy new cartilage.
Should Rimadyl be removed from the market altogether? No - there are certainly some cases where its use may be warranted - severe cases of arthritis which have been left untreated, or which have not responded to Glucosamine or other treatments. The results can be very worthwhile.
But it should never be given to a dog with pre-existing liver or kidney problems. Your dog should be tested for these conditions before being prescribed Rimadyl. Many vets do not do this unless you ask for it specifically. And many vets do not advise that there is a natural arthritis treatment for dogs available. Not because it's ineffective, but just because many vets, like doctors, are trained to treat symptoms with drugs. And the drug companies have huge budgets for pushing the benefits of their medications, both for humans and animals. It doesn't necessarily mean that the drugs are better than the natural alternatives.
So ask for Glucosamine, unless your vet can give you a compelling reason why your dog should use Rimadyl. And you don't even need a prescription!
For information on the most powerful Glucosamine formula, and why a liquid Glucosamine is by far superior to powder or tablet forms, click here: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com/NaturalArthritisTreatment
(c) 2004, Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs
by: Brigitte Smith
Rimadyl was hailed as a wonder arthritis treatment for pets when it came on the market in 1997. Over the next 3 years, due largely to an aggressive marketing campaign by the manufacturer, Pfizer, Rimadyl was prescribed for 5 million dogs.
But it hadn't been thoroughly tested. According to statistics compiled by the FDA (Food And Drug Administration), in 1997 alone, Rimadyl was implicated in 30 per cent of all veterinary adverse drug reaction reports received! Side effects included gastrointestinal, renal and liver problems, and death. Within those first three years, 10,000 dog owners had reported an adverse reaction to Rimadyl, and there were at least 1,500 deaths or euthanasias attributed to the drug. And it is generally accepted that many adverse reactions are not reported, so the real statistics are likely to be significantly higher.
You may remember the Rimadyl ads depicting older dogs bouncing around like puppies. Those dogs were the lucky ones. And of course, the success stories were many, and they were amazing. But you no longer see those Rimadyl ads, do you?
Is there a realistic alternative to Rimadyl? One that provides such a marked improvement without the possible side effects? Or should you take the risk that your dog won't develop side effects to Rimadyl?
The good news is that Glucosamine, a natural sugar produced by the body and found in some foods, plays an important role in the production, maintenance and repair of cartilage. Supplementation with Glucosamine can therefore provide not only the pain relieving effects of Rimadyl, but also helps maintain existing healthy joint tissue and aid in rebuilding healthy new cartilage.
Should Rimadyl be removed from the market altogether? No - there are certainly some cases where its use may be warranted - severe cases of arthritis which have been left untreated, or which have not responded to Glucosamine or other treatments. The results can be very worthwhile.
But it should never be given to a dog with pre-existing liver or kidney problems. Your dog should be tested for these conditions before being prescribed Rimadyl. Many vets do not do this unless you ask for it specifically. And many vets do not advise that there is a natural arthritis treatment for dogs available. Not because it's ineffective, but just because many vets, like doctors, are trained to treat symptoms with drugs. And the drug companies have huge budgets for pushing the benefits of their medications, both for humans and animals. It doesn't necessarily mean that the drugs are better than the natural alternatives.
So ask for Glucosamine, unless your vet can give you a compelling reason why your dog should use Rimadyl. And you don't even need a prescription!
For information on the most powerful Glucosamine formula, and why a liquid Glucosamine is by far superior to powder or tablet forms, click here: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com/NaturalArthritisTreatment
(c) 2004, Brigitte Smith, Healthy Happy Dogs
Cat Training - The Meows And The Purrs
Cat Training - The Meows And The Purrs
by: Son Ngo
A Cat 'meows'. Yes it sounds so good but if it meows loudly and continuously, then the same sound becomes irritating. What do you think the reason can be? Is it hungry?
YES and NO
Yes, hungry, it can be, but apart from this there can many other reasons, why it is 'meowing'. The reason may be anything it may be because it is just bored, or can be because it has suffering from some kind of discomfort or has some medical problem.
What should you do it she keeps meowing? Offer her milk...
No! You should not offer her any food when it is incessantly meowing, as it will think that this as a kind of reward and would keep meowing... This will increase its bad behavior and would affect the relationship between you and the cat.
Offer it food, when it stops meowing, this will be registered in its mind, that if it does not meow unnecessarily, it will be rewarded. You will need to get your cat to learn when it is appropriate to meow, when they really need something. You need to see that all the cat needs is always available to it, as far as possible. This would mean your cat will do less meowing.
Cats are usually lazy and would not exercise by themselves. They love to cat nap all day long. You need to set up a playtime and a play area. Keep Strings, ball, catnip items, or simple home made items that your cat will love. See that the items kept are without any sharp edges which might hurt your pet. This will help it get into a good habit of keeping itself occupied while you are busy with something else.
You should spend sometime in a day and preferable keep it same time everyday. A good time would be when you return home from work and you want to relax. It is proved that playing with or just stroking cats helps one relax and keeps blood pressure under control.
Purring is another characteristic of a cat. Purring signifies that the cat is content. Follow this with caution as purring does not always signify that the cat is happy. Cats also purrs if they are ill, sick or dying. Pay close attention to your cat, when it is purring and check for any physical signals which might suggest that it is not feeling well.
If it stops purring, that too signifies that it has some discomfort maybe it may be sick with a virus or something could be making her feel sick. These are signals to suggest you that seek the services of a veterinarian and have your cat examined. Non-purring may also happen when cats get older or maybe the purring is so soft that you are unable to hear them it.
As in humans, emotions play a very important part of a behavior in your cat. Fears, grief, compassion, jealously affect the behavior of your feline friends too.
* As fear is intimating to us so is it for them, it may have a fear of getting hurt or may be afraid of another animal.
* Cat would exhibit grief, when something tragic happens to it like loosing its owner, the same way as we do when we loose our near or dear ones.
* Cats have compassion for other cats.
* Your meowing and purring pet also turns green with jealousy if it has to share its owner, home, toys or food.
It is these emotions, you need to consider, when you are training your cat. It would be disturbed and might resort to excessive meowing and refuse to listen to its master. When they show the signs of being emotional, you need to find what is affecting their behavior.
Are they hurt or are they ill or is it just their bad behavior.
Cats, being emotional, need your attention all the time. You need to observe, if they are satisfied with the location, they are comfortable with other pets or other members of the family and you should always be aware of their actions.
Training a pet is tricky. It is Time and Patience which will help you through. They are to be treated like our children, teach them good behavior and ignore their bad attitude.
Reward your cat for being good. You need to give time to your cat to teach them how to play with toys and other items which you have kept for their playing. Always feed you cat with healthy food; these will ensure good medical condition and happy-content behavior.
Get toys which they would practically like to play with. Do not go in for toys which you would like them to play with.
Love them, Hug them and be kind to them, and you would be able to share the most beautiful relationship.
by: Son Ngo
A Cat 'meows'. Yes it sounds so good but if it meows loudly and continuously, then the same sound becomes irritating. What do you think the reason can be? Is it hungry?
YES and NO
Yes, hungry, it can be, but apart from this there can many other reasons, why it is 'meowing'. The reason may be anything it may be because it is just bored, or can be because it has suffering from some kind of discomfort or has some medical problem.
What should you do it she keeps meowing? Offer her milk...
No! You should not offer her any food when it is incessantly meowing, as it will think that this as a kind of reward and would keep meowing... This will increase its bad behavior and would affect the relationship between you and the cat.
Offer it food, when it stops meowing, this will be registered in its mind, that if it does not meow unnecessarily, it will be rewarded. You will need to get your cat to learn when it is appropriate to meow, when they really need something. You need to see that all the cat needs is always available to it, as far as possible. This would mean your cat will do less meowing.
Cats are usually lazy and would not exercise by themselves. They love to cat nap all day long. You need to set up a playtime and a play area. Keep Strings, ball, catnip items, or simple home made items that your cat will love. See that the items kept are without any sharp edges which might hurt your pet. This will help it get into a good habit of keeping itself occupied while you are busy with something else.
You should spend sometime in a day and preferable keep it same time everyday. A good time would be when you return home from work and you want to relax. It is proved that playing with or just stroking cats helps one relax and keeps blood pressure under control.
Purring is another characteristic of a cat. Purring signifies that the cat is content. Follow this with caution as purring does not always signify that the cat is happy. Cats also purrs if they are ill, sick or dying. Pay close attention to your cat, when it is purring and check for any physical signals which might suggest that it is not feeling well.
If it stops purring, that too signifies that it has some discomfort maybe it may be sick with a virus or something could be making her feel sick. These are signals to suggest you that seek the services of a veterinarian and have your cat examined. Non-purring may also happen when cats get older or maybe the purring is so soft that you are unable to hear them it.
As in humans, emotions play a very important part of a behavior in your cat. Fears, grief, compassion, jealously affect the behavior of your feline friends too.
* As fear is intimating to us so is it for them, it may have a fear of getting hurt or may be afraid of another animal.
* Cat would exhibit grief, when something tragic happens to it like loosing its owner, the same way as we do when we loose our near or dear ones.
* Cats have compassion for other cats.
* Your meowing and purring pet also turns green with jealousy if it has to share its owner, home, toys or food.
It is these emotions, you need to consider, when you are training your cat. It would be disturbed and might resort to excessive meowing and refuse to listen to its master. When they show the signs of being emotional, you need to find what is affecting their behavior.
Are they hurt or are they ill or is it just their bad behavior.
Cats, being emotional, need your attention all the time. You need to observe, if they are satisfied with the location, they are comfortable with other pets or other members of the family and you should always be aware of their actions.
Training a pet is tricky. It is Time and Patience which will help you through. They are to be treated like our children, teach them good behavior and ignore their bad attitude.
Reward your cat for being good. You need to give time to your cat to teach them how to play with toys and other items which you have kept for their playing. Always feed you cat with healthy food; these will ensure good medical condition and happy-content behavior.
Get toys which they would practically like to play with. Do not go in for toys which you would like them to play with.
Love them, Hug them and be kind to them, and you would be able to share the most beautiful relationship.
Are You Ready To Breed Your Yorkshire Terrier?
Are You Ready To Breed Your Yorkshire Terrier?
by: Rose Lenk
The reported sales for Yorkshire Terriers is phenomenal. Over the past few years, the popularity of this breed as a family pet and as the dog to breed has seen tremendous growth. In fact, the requests for adorable Yorkie puppies is greater than the supply. This fact has many Yorkie owners wondering if they should look into the possibility of breeding their pet.
While breeding Yorkshire Terriers is a worthy goal, it is not for everybody or every dog. There are many things that should be considered before making the decision to breed your Yorkshire Terrier, the least of which regards whether or not you have the time and space to devote to breeding the energetic Yorkshire Terrier.
Many experts reserve the right to breed dogs to the professional breeder, and they will discourage anyone who has a idea to breed Yorkies from doing so. Though this may sound manipulative, there are good reasons why they discourage casual breeding. While I believe that there are many people who should not even consider breeding their Yorkie, I also feel that there are many intelligent people that can incorporate breeding into their lifestyle responsibly. To find out which category you fall into, consider the following points.
Pedigreed and registered doesn't equal breeding material
Yes, a pedigree and registration are requirements before breeding any purebred dog, but their presence does not mean that you have a Yorkie worthy of breeding. Let me explain. The AKC and other registry organizations certify pedigrees and registrations that guarantee the authenticity of your pet as a purebred Yorkie; they do not certify quality. What this means is that an AKC registered Yorkie can have certain traits that are undesirable for breeding such as congenital health defects which are not discernable to the eye and undesirable behavioral traits, which can become more pronounced in the dog's offspring.
Even breeders that possess dogs with Yorkie bloodlines of the highest quality do not breed all of their puppies. In fact, only a very select few ever get used for breeding. The ones that do are carefully evaluated for health quality, behavioral traits and breed standards in an attempt to continually improve the quality of the Yorkie breed. Randomly breeding registered Yorkies does the exact opposite, often resulting in sickly and below-standard puppies.
Breeding Yorkies is not an income opportunity
Breeding Yorkies for monetary gain is not a good reason to pursue breeding this exceptional breed. First, finding a bitch and sire of high enough quality to breed can be an expensive undertaking. Caring for your breeders and puppies until they are old enough to be sold can also be very expensive.
Think about it this way. The average Yorkshire Terrier litter is from one to four puppies. Now, you may be able to sell these puppies for $1,000 to $1,500, but Yorkies require veterinary attention and breeder care for the first three months of their life. Add on to this the cost of a possible Cesarean section and the fact that you cannot whelp more than one litter per dam per year, and you may find yourself in the hole rather than coming out ahead.
Time and dedication
It is estimated that the average breeder spends 120 hours per month caring for their Yorkies and pups. This 120 hours cannot be scheduled around other obligations; other obligations must be scheduled around your puppies. The small size of Yorkie puppies make them extremely susceptible to hypoglycemia and instant death during the first three months of life if they are not cared for properly. So, having a litter of Yorkies pretty much takes a considerable chunk of time and independence from your life.
And it doesn't end when they are three months old. A good breeder will carefully screen and interview all potential buyers to ensure that their puppies get placed in only the best homes. They will also offer support to the puppy's new family to make sure that they are properly prepared to care for the Yorkie, and they will stay available to help out any purchasers in need, even if it means accepting the puppy or full-grown Yorkie back into their home if problems arise.
If you are still not deterred after considering all of these breeding realities, you may just have what it takes to successfully breed Yorkshire Terriers. The next step is to find out all you can about Yorkies and how to breed them. The AKC is a great place to start. Good luck!
by: Rose Lenk
The reported sales for Yorkshire Terriers is phenomenal. Over the past few years, the popularity of this breed as a family pet and as the dog to breed has seen tremendous growth. In fact, the requests for adorable Yorkie puppies is greater than the supply. This fact has many Yorkie owners wondering if they should look into the possibility of breeding their pet.
While breeding Yorkshire Terriers is a worthy goal, it is not for everybody or every dog. There are many things that should be considered before making the decision to breed your Yorkshire Terrier, the least of which regards whether or not you have the time and space to devote to breeding the energetic Yorkshire Terrier.
Many experts reserve the right to breed dogs to the professional breeder, and they will discourage anyone who has a idea to breed Yorkies from doing so. Though this may sound manipulative, there are good reasons why they discourage casual breeding. While I believe that there are many people who should not even consider breeding their Yorkie, I also feel that there are many intelligent people that can incorporate breeding into their lifestyle responsibly. To find out which category you fall into, consider the following points.
Pedigreed and registered doesn't equal breeding material
Yes, a pedigree and registration are requirements before breeding any purebred dog, but their presence does not mean that you have a Yorkie worthy of breeding. Let me explain. The AKC and other registry organizations certify pedigrees and registrations that guarantee the authenticity of your pet as a purebred Yorkie; they do not certify quality. What this means is that an AKC registered Yorkie can have certain traits that are undesirable for breeding such as congenital health defects which are not discernable to the eye and undesirable behavioral traits, which can become more pronounced in the dog's offspring.
Even breeders that possess dogs with Yorkie bloodlines of the highest quality do not breed all of their puppies. In fact, only a very select few ever get used for breeding. The ones that do are carefully evaluated for health quality, behavioral traits and breed standards in an attempt to continually improve the quality of the Yorkie breed. Randomly breeding registered Yorkies does the exact opposite, often resulting in sickly and below-standard puppies.
Breeding Yorkies is not an income opportunity
Breeding Yorkies for monetary gain is not a good reason to pursue breeding this exceptional breed. First, finding a bitch and sire of high enough quality to breed can be an expensive undertaking. Caring for your breeders and puppies until they are old enough to be sold can also be very expensive.
Think about it this way. The average Yorkshire Terrier litter is from one to four puppies. Now, you may be able to sell these puppies for $1,000 to $1,500, but Yorkies require veterinary attention and breeder care for the first three months of their life. Add on to this the cost of a possible Cesarean section and the fact that you cannot whelp more than one litter per dam per year, and you may find yourself in the hole rather than coming out ahead.
Time and dedication
It is estimated that the average breeder spends 120 hours per month caring for their Yorkies and pups. This 120 hours cannot be scheduled around other obligations; other obligations must be scheduled around your puppies. The small size of Yorkie puppies make them extremely susceptible to hypoglycemia and instant death during the first three months of life if they are not cared for properly. So, having a litter of Yorkies pretty much takes a considerable chunk of time and independence from your life.
And it doesn't end when they are three months old. A good breeder will carefully screen and interview all potential buyers to ensure that their puppies get placed in only the best homes. They will also offer support to the puppy's new family to make sure that they are properly prepared to care for the Yorkie, and they will stay available to help out any purchasers in need, even if it means accepting the puppy or full-grown Yorkie back into their home if problems arise.
If you are still not deterred after considering all of these breeding realities, you may just have what it takes to successfully breed Yorkshire Terriers. The next step is to find out all you can about Yorkies and how to breed them. The AKC is a great place to start. Good luck!
Dog Vaccinations - The Facts
Dog Vaccinations - The Facts
by: Brigitte Smith
Bailey is a three year old Bull Terrier, and she's the love of Maruchy Perez's life.
Maruchy is a singer, and the summer that Bailey was born she was working for one of the Disney ships out of Port Canaveral (half her luck - sounds like a great lifestyle!).
Maruchy had researched the the breed for two years before she met the breeder who lived about five hours away from where Maruchy lived.
Bailey was born in Brooksville forty miles north of Tampa on the 4th of July. The breeder sent pictures of the litter to Maruchy after they were born, and Maruchy picked Bailey out from the many pictures she received while on the Disney ship.
Bailey went home with Maruchy some nine weeks later, and she was everything Marchy had hoped for. She was a hand full but a lot of fun.
But it wasn't long before the challenges started. Maruchy noticed that Bailey was sick a lot, with either hives or vomiting or diarrhea or all three. Maruchy repeatedly took Bailey to the vet who usually gave her cortisone for the hives, and pills to prevent dehydration.
When she was four months old Bailey was given her rabies shot.
Over the next four months, Bailey went from a loving puppy to a very nasty and aggressive dog with BIG teeth.
Maruchy spoke to the vet, the breeder, animal trainers, and anyone who she thought might be able to help. Bailey had become so aggressive that at one point it seemed as everyone was saying "put her down".
Maruchy couldn't bear the though of it. She was desperate to find a better solution. After another month of living in fear, Maruchy contacted an "animal communicator", Diane Samsel, who told Maruchy to take Bailey off the commercial dog food she was on immediately, and to find a holistic doctor. The animal communicator also advised Maruchy to let the holistic doctor know that Bailey had "auto immune vaccinosis".
Maruchy did exactly what the animal communicator suggested. She ceased the commercial dog food, and set up a consultation with a holistic doctor, knowing that Bailey was a very sick little dog, and determined to save Bailey from a terrible fate.
Bailey showed signs of improvement withiin two days of being totally off commercial dog food! Maruchy started her on a raw food only diet and went to see a wonderful doctor who agreed to consult with Maruchy and treat Bailey. With the animal communicator's guidance, Maruchy instructed and helped the doctor give Bailey the holistic medicines she needed to get her back on track.
For more information on the effects of vaccinations in pets, go here: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com/RemoveToxinsNaturally.
Maruchy's understanding of Auto Immune Vaccinosis is that it is a condition which can arise when the body has been given so much poison by way of vaccines, that the body starts to reject one of its own organs. In Bailey's case, her body was rejecting her liver. Bailey couldn't control herself and was in a lot of pain, and she regressed to a behaviour reminiscent of times past when aggression was actively encouraged in bull terriers in order to fight them. The liver is also said to be the recepticle for feelings, from a holistic point of view, including anger.
Who is a candidate for Auto Immune Vaccinosis? Basically anything that lives and has organs that can be poisoned by injecting the body with the so called "anti-virus". In other words, pets are at a very high risk due to the very high number and frequency of so-called essential vaccinations. And because the vaccinations aren't necessarily given in doses which take into account the animal's size, small dogs are probably at greater risk than large ones. But any dog can be susceptible.
Now that Maruchy has eliminated the vaccines and petfood toxins from Bailey's system, she's very careful not to expose Bailey to other poisons - including household chemicals.
For information on eliminating toxins from your dog's life, thereby improving his/her health significantly, click here.
Maruchy sent me some cute pictures of Bailey and her playmate, Halle, Maruchy's other dog. You can see the pics here: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com/BaileyPics.
Wow, what a story! I know these vaccinations (not to mention cortisone as well) can do harm and can build up in the dog's system. I'm surprised it happened so soon with Bailey. At only 8 months old! That's really frightening, isn't it? To think of the potential harm it can do to an older dog when they're given these drugs regularly over a lifetime.
When I started on my "journey" with my Healthy Happy Dogs site and newsletter, I really wasn't aware of just how important a holistic approach is for dogs. I'd actually always had my dogs vaccinated. But not any more. The last time I received the reminder letter from the vet that my dogs' annual shots were due, I took them for an examination, but NO shots this time. And NO more cortisone for my Rottweiler's skin irritations (which have improved radically since I've been supplementing with vitamins).
I actually expected an argument from the vet when I said I wasn't going to agree to any more vaccinations. But guess what? She said that was FINE - the important thing is to bring the dogs in for a checkup - the vaccinations are certainly NOT essential. I couldn't believe it! Why continually vaccinate a dog when it's not ecessary?? I was dumbfounded. I've done a lot of research, and know this to be the case, but for my vet who has always routinely pumped poisonous vaccine into my dogs every year to admit it was totally unnecessary - I was dumbfounded.
Bailey's story (and my experience with my vet) are such an important lesson for you. Now, please don't misunderstand me - I'm NOT advocating abandoning your vet's advice - PLEASE ALWAYS discuss your concerns and your intentions with your vet. There may be valid reasons why your particular dog may need a particular vaccination (especially puppies). And some jurisdictions have legal requirements for certain vaccinations.
But whatever you decide, please MAKE SURE that you take your dog in for a general health checkup at least once a year.
© Brigitte Smith, 2005
by: Brigitte Smith
Bailey is a three year old Bull Terrier, and she's the love of Maruchy Perez's life.
Maruchy is a singer, and the summer that Bailey was born she was working for one of the Disney ships out of Port Canaveral (half her luck - sounds like a great lifestyle!).
Maruchy had researched the the breed for two years before she met the breeder who lived about five hours away from where Maruchy lived.
Bailey was born in Brooksville forty miles north of Tampa on the 4th of July. The breeder sent pictures of the litter to Maruchy after they were born, and Maruchy picked Bailey out from the many pictures she received while on the Disney ship.
Bailey went home with Maruchy some nine weeks later, and she was everything Marchy had hoped for. She was a hand full but a lot of fun.
But it wasn't long before the challenges started. Maruchy noticed that Bailey was sick a lot, with either hives or vomiting or diarrhea or all three. Maruchy repeatedly took Bailey to the vet who usually gave her cortisone for the hives, and pills to prevent dehydration.
When she was four months old Bailey was given her rabies shot.
Over the next four months, Bailey went from a loving puppy to a very nasty and aggressive dog with BIG teeth.
Maruchy spoke to the vet, the breeder, animal trainers, and anyone who she thought might be able to help. Bailey had become so aggressive that at one point it seemed as everyone was saying "put her down".
Maruchy couldn't bear the though of it. She was desperate to find a better solution. After another month of living in fear, Maruchy contacted an "animal communicator", Diane Samsel, who told Maruchy to take Bailey off the commercial dog food she was on immediately, and to find a holistic doctor. The animal communicator also advised Maruchy to let the holistic doctor know that Bailey had "auto immune vaccinosis".
Maruchy did exactly what the animal communicator suggested. She ceased the commercial dog food, and set up a consultation with a holistic doctor, knowing that Bailey was a very sick little dog, and determined to save Bailey from a terrible fate.
Bailey showed signs of improvement withiin two days of being totally off commercial dog food! Maruchy started her on a raw food only diet and went to see a wonderful doctor who agreed to consult with Maruchy and treat Bailey. With the animal communicator's guidance, Maruchy instructed and helped the doctor give Bailey the holistic medicines she needed to get her back on track.
For more information on the effects of vaccinations in pets, go here: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com/RemoveToxinsNaturally.
Maruchy's understanding of Auto Immune Vaccinosis is that it is a condition which can arise when the body has been given so much poison by way of vaccines, that the body starts to reject one of its own organs. In Bailey's case, her body was rejecting her liver. Bailey couldn't control herself and was in a lot of pain, and she regressed to a behaviour reminiscent of times past when aggression was actively encouraged in bull terriers in order to fight them. The liver is also said to be the recepticle for feelings, from a holistic point of view, including anger.
Who is a candidate for Auto Immune Vaccinosis? Basically anything that lives and has organs that can be poisoned by injecting the body with the so called "anti-virus". In other words, pets are at a very high risk due to the very high number and frequency of so-called essential vaccinations. And because the vaccinations aren't necessarily given in doses which take into account the animal's size, small dogs are probably at greater risk than large ones. But any dog can be susceptible.
Now that Maruchy has eliminated the vaccines and petfood toxins from Bailey's system, she's very careful not to expose Bailey to other poisons - including household chemicals.
For information on eliminating toxins from your dog's life, thereby improving his/her health significantly, click here.
Maruchy sent me some cute pictures of Bailey and her playmate, Halle, Maruchy's other dog. You can see the pics here: http://www.HealthyHappyDogs.com/BaileyPics.
Wow, what a story! I know these vaccinations (not to mention cortisone as well) can do harm and can build up in the dog's system. I'm surprised it happened so soon with Bailey. At only 8 months old! That's really frightening, isn't it? To think of the potential harm it can do to an older dog when they're given these drugs regularly over a lifetime.
When I started on my "journey" with my Healthy Happy Dogs site and newsletter, I really wasn't aware of just how important a holistic approach is for dogs. I'd actually always had my dogs vaccinated. But not any more. The last time I received the reminder letter from the vet that my dogs' annual shots were due, I took them for an examination, but NO shots this time. And NO more cortisone for my Rottweiler's skin irritations (which have improved radically since I've been supplementing with vitamins).
I actually expected an argument from the vet when I said I wasn't going to agree to any more vaccinations. But guess what? She said that was FINE - the important thing is to bring the dogs in for a checkup - the vaccinations are certainly NOT essential. I couldn't believe it! Why continually vaccinate a dog when it's not ecessary?? I was dumbfounded. I've done a lot of research, and know this to be the case, but for my vet who has always routinely pumped poisonous vaccine into my dogs every year to admit it was totally unnecessary - I was dumbfounded.
Bailey's story (and my experience with my vet) are such an important lesson for you. Now, please don't misunderstand me - I'm NOT advocating abandoning your vet's advice - PLEASE ALWAYS discuss your concerns and your intentions with your vet. There may be valid reasons why your particular dog may need a particular vaccination (especially puppies). And some jurisdictions have legal requirements for certain vaccinations.
But whatever you decide, please MAKE SURE that you take your dog in for a general health checkup at least once a year.
© Brigitte Smith, 2005
Train Your Dog With God Bombs
Train Your Dog With God Bombs
by: Marc Goldberg
The concept of correcting your dog can create a contest of willpower between you and your pet. Anyone who has ever lived with even a slightly naughty dog can tell you that such critters thrive on contests of willpower. A four year old child whining in Walmart for a candy bar still hasn’t got the reserve of willpower held by the average dog.
For example, if you’ve ever corrected your dog from getting up on the couch or eating off a counter, he knows you don’t like him doing it. Does he stop? Heck no. He simply does the behavior when you’re not looking. Or maybe he even does it in front of you with a look that says, go ahead, try and stop me.
That’s because Fido knows what you want. But he just knows he has the option of doing it anyway because maybe, just maybe, today is the day when mom or dad doesn’t have the strength to deal with me.
The answer is NOT to yell at or correct your dog more or harder. That’s a hard lesson to learn for most pet owners. But as you may have found by now, correcting more and more simply makes for an enjoyable challenge for the dog. He thinks, “Go ahead, make my day, because I feel lucky today, punk.”
Let’s take luck out of the training process!
Here is a set of simple instructions to follow to stop your dog from doing an indoor behavior such as getting on the couch, snarfing food off counters, eating the trash, etc.
1. Do not reprimand the dog. You’ll only teach him to wait till you’re not around if you do so.
2. Instead, keep a supply of empty plastic milk jugs handy all over your house.
3. Into each empty ½ gallon or gallon jug, place a couple handfuls of dried beans and replace the cap.
4. When you find the dog on the sofa—or better yet eyeballing it with intent—loft a jug so that it lands on or near your dog, depending on his size or temperament.
5. When you throw the jug, DO NOT look at or even say anything to your dog, and do not pick up the jug again in your dog’s presence.
6. Your dog will think, “Hmmm, God drops a loud bomb on my head every time I even look at the couch.”
This process will not harm your dog as it certainly does not hurt. In fact, it won’t even hurt his feelings because you haven’t yelled at him. However, it will make the behavior a great deal less fun than it was before.
You may only have to do the above once or twice to make the couch (trash, or whatever) a “bad place” for Fido. But what you have removed from the contest is YOURSELF. You have made the contest between Fido and God, and believe me, God always wins.
by: Marc Goldberg
The concept of correcting your dog can create a contest of willpower between you and your pet. Anyone who has ever lived with even a slightly naughty dog can tell you that such critters thrive on contests of willpower. A four year old child whining in Walmart for a candy bar still hasn’t got the reserve of willpower held by the average dog.
For example, if you’ve ever corrected your dog from getting up on the couch or eating off a counter, he knows you don’t like him doing it. Does he stop? Heck no. He simply does the behavior when you’re not looking. Or maybe he even does it in front of you with a look that says, go ahead, try and stop me.
That’s because Fido knows what you want. But he just knows he has the option of doing it anyway because maybe, just maybe, today is the day when mom or dad doesn’t have the strength to deal with me.
The answer is NOT to yell at or correct your dog more or harder. That’s a hard lesson to learn for most pet owners. But as you may have found by now, correcting more and more simply makes for an enjoyable challenge for the dog. He thinks, “Go ahead, make my day, because I feel lucky today, punk.”
Let’s take luck out of the training process!
Here is a set of simple instructions to follow to stop your dog from doing an indoor behavior such as getting on the couch, snarfing food off counters, eating the trash, etc.
1. Do not reprimand the dog. You’ll only teach him to wait till you’re not around if you do so.
2. Instead, keep a supply of empty plastic milk jugs handy all over your house.
3. Into each empty ½ gallon or gallon jug, place a couple handfuls of dried beans and replace the cap.
4. When you find the dog on the sofa—or better yet eyeballing it with intent—loft a jug so that it lands on or near your dog, depending on his size or temperament.
5. When you throw the jug, DO NOT look at or even say anything to your dog, and do not pick up the jug again in your dog’s presence.
6. Your dog will think, “Hmmm, God drops a loud bomb on my head every time I even look at the couch.”
This process will not harm your dog as it certainly does not hurt. In fact, it won’t even hurt his feelings because you haven’t yelled at him. However, it will make the behavior a great deal less fun than it was before.
You may only have to do the above once or twice to make the couch (trash, or whatever) a “bad place” for Fido. But what you have removed from the contest is YOURSELF. You have made the contest between Fido and God, and believe me, God always wins.
Maintaining Your Dogs Teeth And Oral Health
Maintaining Your Dogs Teeth And Oral Health
by: Randy Jones
The most common oral condition suffered by dogs is periodontal disease. This disease affects the tissues that surround and support the teeth. Plaque is the usual cause of periodontal disease. It gradually covers the teeth, quickly hardening into tartar.
The bacteria in plaque irritate the gums, causing them to swell. This swelling is called gingivitis. Each day the gums grow more inflamed, producing other damaging bacteria, causing the gums to recede. Over time the tooth becomes loose, followed by tooth loss.
Aside from being very painful, and the possible loss of teeth, periodontal disease can become a reservoir of infection and bacteria to the blood, and from the bloodstream, to the vital organs, such as heart, kidneys, lungs, and liver. Common symptoms of periodontal disease are consistently bad breath, yellow to brown masks on the teeth, reddened gums and exposed tooth roots, reluctance to eat, drooling, difficulty in chewing, and mouth pain, usually shown by pawing at the mouth, or rubbing his face against the ground.
All dogs are at risk, especially in dogs with small mouths, short muzzles and flat faces, as well as senior dogs. Tooth brushing on a regular basis can minimize plaque buildup, and regular visits to the vet can identify any hidden damage to the teeth and gums before it gets out of hand.
Treatment can range from tooth brushing, descaling, usually carried out by the vet with the patient under a general anesthetic, to advanced dental-surgery techniques. Early detection is the best treatment of all. Controlling your dog’s diet can have a big impact on his teeth. Dogs who are fed mostly soft foods suffer more periodontal disease than those who must chew.
Help your dog maintain his good health by frequent visits to the vet, regular tooth brushing, maintaining a healthy diet, and occasionally giving him a chew toy or bone. The benefits will last a lifetime.
by: Randy Jones
The most common oral condition suffered by dogs is periodontal disease. This disease affects the tissues that surround and support the teeth. Plaque is the usual cause of periodontal disease. It gradually covers the teeth, quickly hardening into tartar.
The bacteria in plaque irritate the gums, causing them to swell. This swelling is called gingivitis. Each day the gums grow more inflamed, producing other damaging bacteria, causing the gums to recede. Over time the tooth becomes loose, followed by tooth loss.
Aside from being very painful, and the possible loss of teeth, periodontal disease can become a reservoir of infection and bacteria to the blood, and from the bloodstream, to the vital organs, such as heart, kidneys, lungs, and liver. Common symptoms of periodontal disease are consistently bad breath, yellow to brown masks on the teeth, reddened gums and exposed tooth roots, reluctance to eat, drooling, difficulty in chewing, and mouth pain, usually shown by pawing at the mouth, or rubbing his face against the ground.
All dogs are at risk, especially in dogs with small mouths, short muzzles and flat faces, as well as senior dogs. Tooth brushing on a regular basis can minimize plaque buildup, and regular visits to the vet can identify any hidden damage to the teeth and gums before it gets out of hand.
Treatment can range from tooth brushing, descaling, usually carried out by the vet with the patient under a general anesthetic, to advanced dental-surgery techniques. Early detection is the best treatment of all. Controlling your dog’s diet can have a big impact on his teeth. Dogs who are fed mostly soft foods suffer more periodontal disease than those who must chew.
Help your dog maintain his good health by frequent visits to the vet, regular tooth brushing, maintaining a healthy diet, and occasionally giving him a chew toy or bone. The benefits will last a lifetime.
Why Does My Dog Growl at Me?
Why Does My Dog Growl at Me?
by: Marc Goldberg
Guarding is an instinctual behavior for dogs. It is useful to us when they warn strangers who intrude on their (and our) territory. One of the earliest benefits dog provided to man was to serve as an early warning intruder alert system.
Territoriality is, simply stated, guarding space. It is the dog’s way of saying “this space has value and it belongs to me and my pack.” In fact, dogs guard all sorts of things, some tangible, such as food, others intangible such as space.
When they guard these items from outsiders it can be helpful. I leave my home knowing my dog will be alert to an inappropriate intrusion. Dogs also guard tangibles and intangibles from one another. You shouldn’t expect to see a submissive dog take a bone or scrap from the alpha or dominant dog. Should he try, he’ll face a swift correction. But that’s rarely necessary because in the structure of the dog pack, it is clearly understood who is entitled to what and when.
But what happens when that clear understanding is lacking between a dog and members of his human pack? The results can be a disaster…a dog who guards something against his very owners.
In this article we’ll concentrate on space guarding behaviors. In the dog pack, if the dominant dog wants to walk from point A to point B, he will do it even if he has to nudge a lesser dog out of his way. If the more submissive dog protests, what he is actually doing is challenging the authority of his leader by trying to guard the space he occupies.
The same event may transpire in our homes. Your dog helps himself to a place on the sofa. You either sit down next to him, or try to take his collar to pull him off. Your own dog growls or snaps at you. He’s guarding space. Moreover, he’s stating in dog language that he believes he is dominant to you.
You need to open a cabinet and the dog is blocking your way. You take his collar to move him, and he growls or bites. The same thing may occur when you want to push the dog out a door, pass him in a narrow hallway, or get too close to him laying in his favorite spot.
In many households, the human occupants do not realize that their dog is guarding space until the dog becomes completely out of control. In fact, we excuse the behavior. That’s because too often people apply human standards to canine behavior. Among our species it is impolite to pull someone out of a chair or shoulder them aside when you need something. So if the dog growls when you sit by him on the couch, many people wrongly think the dog is just being grumpy, or that he was too comfortable to be disturbed.
I have actually seen adults chastise children for being “impolite” to a dog for sitting next to him on furniture, or for wanting to remove the dog from their place. People subconsciously try to accept these problems as “quirks” of the dog. Many owners try to just work around the issue by not disturbing the dog under whatever circumstance causes the dog to guard.
Unfortunately, this sends precisely the wrong message to the dog. Humoring him confirms that he is dominant, and is, therefore, entitled to guard more and more space. That’s why guarding behavior escalates for many dogs. Often, I hear from owners who’s dog began to growl at them under very limited conditions, say when being pulled off the sofa. But eventually the behavior escalates to the point where the dog growls when they even get near him on the sofa.
The owner thinks the dog is getting worse. The dog simply thinks he’s getting stronger. For some dogs, dominance is a self-rewarding behavior. You want to remove him from the couch. He growls. You back off. The behavior works. So eventually he growls when you even look at him on the couch. “They just don’t seem to get it,” the dog is thinking. “I’ll have to warn them earlier.”
This can become very problematic for some pet owners, particularly those with young children in the house. Kids often don’t realize that they’re not “supposed to bother the dog.” They just figure they have liberty to safely toddle wherever their little legs will take them. And if you ask me, they should have that right.
Older children must be taught to respect dogs. And younger children must be observed very carefully when they interact with a dog, to be sure they do not accidentally pinch him for example. But no one can expect a two year old child to understand she should avoid Rover when he’s laying on the sofa.
Willy is a three year old German Short Hair Pointer. His owner, Lisa, called me very concerned. Willy had been growling at her baby every time the child approached him in his dog bed. Sometimes Willy would climb on the couch, and he would also growl at the baby on those occasions. Apparently this behavior had been going on for over a month. And just recently, the dog had growled at Lisa when she sat near him on the couch. Lisa was very confused because this entire set of behaviors was only about a month old, but it was getting worse fast.
“Did your baby start walking about a month ago?” I asked her. The answer was yes. That made it all clear to me. Willy always felt Lisa was dominant to him. So he never growled at her before. But when the baby started walking, this impudent little human would intrude on his space, and Willy did believe himself dominant to the baby.
Not understanding the behavior, Lisa had spent an entire month showing Willy how dominant he was by not correcting him and not letting the baby disturb him when he was comfortable. The unintended message to Willy was that he was more dominant than he had originally thought. That’s why he began to guard space from Lisa too.
While not all dogs progress from growling to snapping, or from air snapping to contact biting, that does happen with some dogs. And it’s tragic because it usually doesn’t need to reach that point. Left untreated, most dogs who effectively guard space will eventually scare or hurt their owners enough to be removed from their homes, or be put down.
Willy became a client of the Chicagoland Boarding School for Dogs. In the time he spent with us, we used our Forcefree Method to show him that space was not a resource he should guard from his human family.
We taught Willy a series of exercises using a vibrating training collar delivering a series of low level taps. The vibration, while not at all painful, was attention getting. (Before we put the collar on Willy, we let Lisa feel the the collar on her hand so she understood they were not painful. Lisa described the feeling as a mild tickle.) During the initial phase of training, our goal was to teach Willy that when he felt the taps, he could stop them by altering a behavior.
We started out with leash pulling, showing him that pulling on a tight leash turned on the tapping sensation, and that walking nicely on a loose leash turned them off. Then we went to the sit stay. We showed Willy that getting up when he was supposed to be sitting turned on taps that he could turn off instantly by re-sitting himself.
The reason we didn’t go right to the space guarding issue was simple. We didn’t want to overwhelm the dog by immediately training for the most difficult behavior first. Also the guarding behaviors are very specific to the family. They might be tough to reproduce without his sofa, his baby, and his owner.
But once Willy understood that he could stop collar taps by altering a behavior, we were ready to confront the real issue, the guarding of space. By this point in the training, we had established a bond of trust and affection with Willy. That was critical because now we were teaching him to yield his personal space to us under the pressure of the taps.
In short, by sometimes invading Willy’s personal space, while tapping, we showed him that he could turn off the tapping, as usual, by giving us a desired behavior…in this case, moving out of the way. Starting on leash, we held the dog close to our body, literally turning into him, and tapped as we moved through his space. Using a combination of leash pressure and body movement, we moved Willy out of the way. The second he began to yield his space, the taps stopped.
Willy began to understand very quickly. Space wasn’t worth guarding anymore. In fact, each time we asked him to give up space, he became very willing to do so at once. After all, as far as he knew, any space we asked him for became slightly annoying anyway.
We brought this dog home at the conclusion of our ten day program, reoriented him to his family and his environment, transferred the behavior modification techniques to his owner over the course of two hours. Then we left.
Lisa called two days later. She reported that Willy was leaving his dog bed as soon as the baby approached. We were happy with this report, but Lisa was concerned. She wanted the dog and the baby to be friends and she was worried that the dog was now “fleeing” from the baby.
We explained that this was progress given that the dog had modified a major behavior and was now yielding space, rather than guarding it. We advised her to give it some more time to see if the dog would eventually find pleasure in sharing space, time and bonding with the baby in his new submissive role. We did warn Lisa that not all dogs bond with all people, but that it was still a distinct possibility.
Two weeks later Lisa called again, and she was very happy. She found Willy and the baby curled up together in the dog’s bed. Apparently, Willy had calmed down enough to realize that while he was no longer able to guard space, there was a wonderful pleasure in sharing it.
Trust is something that grows over time, and with experience. Every day that passes as Willy continues to show the right reaction is one more day in which the trust between he and his family grows. Willy has been home for several months now, and all the reports are good news.
Here is a dog who was at severe risk for re-homing and possibly might have injured a child, curled up in bed with his little master.
by: Marc Goldberg
Guarding is an instinctual behavior for dogs. It is useful to us when they warn strangers who intrude on their (and our) territory. One of the earliest benefits dog provided to man was to serve as an early warning intruder alert system.
Territoriality is, simply stated, guarding space. It is the dog’s way of saying “this space has value and it belongs to me and my pack.” In fact, dogs guard all sorts of things, some tangible, such as food, others intangible such as space.
When they guard these items from outsiders it can be helpful. I leave my home knowing my dog will be alert to an inappropriate intrusion. Dogs also guard tangibles and intangibles from one another. You shouldn’t expect to see a submissive dog take a bone or scrap from the alpha or dominant dog. Should he try, he’ll face a swift correction. But that’s rarely necessary because in the structure of the dog pack, it is clearly understood who is entitled to what and when.
But what happens when that clear understanding is lacking between a dog and members of his human pack? The results can be a disaster…a dog who guards something against his very owners.
In this article we’ll concentrate on space guarding behaviors. In the dog pack, if the dominant dog wants to walk from point A to point B, he will do it even if he has to nudge a lesser dog out of his way. If the more submissive dog protests, what he is actually doing is challenging the authority of his leader by trying to guard the space he occupies.
The same event may transpire in our homes. Your dog helps himself to a place on the sofa. You either sit down next to him, or try to take his collar to pull him off. Your own dog growls or snaps at you. He’s guarding space. Moreover, he’s stating in dog language that he believes he is dominant to you.
You need to open a cabinet and the dog is blocking your way. You take his collar to move him, and he growls or bites. The same thing may occur when you want to push the dog out a door, pass him in a narrow hallway, or get too close to him laying in his favorite spot.
In many households, the human occupants do not realize that their dog is guarding space until the dog becomes completely out of control. In fact, we excuse the behavior. That’s because too often people apply human standards to canine behavior. Among our species it is impolite to pull someone out of a chair or shoulder them aside when you need something. So if the dog growls when you sit by him on the couch, many people wrongly think the dog is just being grumpy, or that he was too comfortable to be disturbed.
I have actually seen adults chastise children for being “impolite” to a dog for sitting next to him on furniture, or for wanting to remove the dog from their place. People subconsciously try to accept these problems as “quirks” of the dog. Many owners try to just work around the issue by not disturbing the dog under whatever circumstance causes the dog to guard.
Unfortunately, this sends precisely the wrong message to the dog. Humoring him confirms that he is dominant, and is, therefore, entitled to guard more and more space. That’s why guarding behavior escalates for many dogs. Often, I hear from owners who’s dog began to growl at them under very limited conditions, say when being pulled off the sofa. But eventually the behavior escalates to the point where the dog growls when they even get near him on the sofa.
The owner thinks the dog is getting worse. The dog simply thinks he’s getting stronger. For some dogs, dominance is a self-rewarding behavior. You want to remove him from the couch. He growls. You back off. The behavior works. So eventually he growls when you even look at him on the couch. “They just don’t seem to get it,” the dog is thinking. “I’ll have to warn them earlier.”
This can become very problematic for some pet owners, particularly those with young children in the house. Kids often don’t realize that they’re not “supposed to bother the dog.” They just figure they have liberty to safely toddle wherever their little legs will take them. And if you ask me, they should have that right.
Older children must be taught to respect dogs. And younger children must be observed very carefully when they interact with a dog, to be sure they do not accidentally pinch him for example. But no one can expect a two year old child to understand she should avoid Rover when he’s laying on the sofa.
Willy is a three year old German Short Hair Pointer. His owner, Lisa, called me very concerned. Willy had been growling at her baby every time the child approached him in his dog bed. Sometimes Willy would climb on the couch, and he would also growl at the baby on those occasions. Apparently this behavior had been going on for over a month. And just recently, the dog had growled at Lisa when she sat near him on the couch. Lisa was very confused because this entire set of behaviors was only about a month old, but it was getting worse fast.
“Did your baby start walking about a month ago?” I asked her. The answer was yes. That made it all clear to me. Willy always felt Lisa was dominant to him. So he never growled at her before. But when the baby started walking, this impudent little human would intrude on his space, and Willy did believe himself dominant to the baby.
Not understanding the behavior, Lisa had spent an entire month showing Willy how dominant he was by not correcting him and not letting the baby disturb him when he was comfortable. The unintended message to Willy was that he was more dominant than he had originally thought. That’s why he began to guard space from Lisa too.
While not all dogs progress from growling to snapping, or from air snapping to contact biting, that does happen with some dogs. And it’s tragic because it usually doesn’t need to reach that point. Left untreated, most dogs who effectively guard space will eventually scare or hurt their owners enough to be removed from their homes, or be put down.
Willy became a client of the Chicagoland Boarding School for Dogs. In the time he spent with us, we used our Forcefree Method to show him that space was not a resource he should guard from his human family.
We taught Willy a series of exercises using a vibrating training collar delivering a series of low level taps. The vibration, while not at all painful, was attention getting. (Before we put the collar on Willy, we let Lisa feel the the collar on her hand so she understood they were not painful. Lisa described the feeling as a mild tickle.) During the initial phase of training, our goal was to teach Willy that when he felt the taps, he could stop them by altering a behavior.
We started out with leash pulling, showing him that pulling on a tight leash turned on the tapping sensation, and that walking nicely on a loose leash turned them off. Then we went to the sit stay. We showed Willy that getting up when he was supposed to be sitting turned on taps that he could turn off instantly by re-sitting himself.
The reason we didn’t go right to the space guarding issue was simple. We didn’t want to overwhelm the dog by immediately training for the most difficult behavior first. Also the guarding behaviors are very specific to the family. They might be tough to reproduce without his sofa, his baby, and his owner.
But once Willy understood that he could stop collar taps by altering a behavior, we were ready to confront the real issue, the guarding of space. By this point in the training, we had established a bond of trust and affection with Willy. That was critical because now we were teaching him to yield his personal space to us under the pressure of the taps.
In short, by sometimes invading Willy’s personal space, while tapping, we showed him that he could turn off the tapping, as usual, by giving us a desired behavior…in this case, moving out of the way. Starting on leash, we held the dog close to our body, literally turning into him, and tapped as we moved through his space. Using a combination of leash pressure and body movement, we moved Willy out of the way. The second he began to yield his space, the taps stopped.
Willy began to understand very quickly. Space wasn’t worth guarding anymore. In fact, each time we asked him to give up space, he became very willing to do so at once. After all, as far as he knew, any space we asked him for became slightly annoying anyway.
We brought this dog home at the conclusion of our ten day program, reoriented him to his family and his environment, transferred the behavior modification techniques to his owner over the course of two hours. Then we left.
Lisa called two days later. She reported that Willy was leaving his dog bed as soon as the baby approached. We were happy with this report, but Lisa was concerned. She wanted the dog and the baby to be friends and she was worried that the dog was now “fleeing” from the baby.
We explained that this was progress given that the dog had modified a major behavior and was now yielding space, rather than guarding it. We advised her to give it some more time to see if the dog would eventually find pleasure in sharing space, time and bonding with the baby in his new submissive role. We did warn Lisa that not all dogs bond with all people, but that it was still a distinct possibility.
Two weeks later Lisa called again, and she was very happy. She found Willy and the baby curled up together in the dog’s bed. Apparently, Willy had calmed down enough to realize that while he was no longer able to guard space, there was a wonderful pleasure in sharing it.
Trust is something that grows over time, and with experience. Every day that passes as Willy continues to show the right reaction is one more day in which the trust between he and his family grows. Willy has been home for several months now, and all the reports are good news.
Here is a dog who was at severe risk for re-homing and possibly might have injured a child, curled up in bed with his little master.
Can You Tell The Sex Of Your Goldfish?
Can You Tell The Sex Of Your Goldfish?
by: Ong Hui Woo
Have you wondered if your Goldfish is a male or female? At a glance, they may all look the same. But if you are into breeding Goldfish, you better not have all males inside the tank.
These are some methods that can be used to recognize the sexes of Goldfish, but even these are useless unless the fish are at least a year old, i.e., have attained sexual maturity.
1. Midline ridge: male goldfish have a ridge running through the back of pelvic fins to their vent opening on the underside. The ridge is either completely missing or smaller in females.
2. Firmness of abdomen: The area between pelvic and anal fins is pliable for females but very firm for males.
3. Shape of the vent: Though difficult to figure out, the female vent is rounder and convex, whereas the male vent is thinner and concave.
4. Shape of the pectoral fins: Male pectoral fins are pointed with stiffer leading ray and female pectorals are rounded, shorter with finer front fin ray.
5. Features: females are brighter colored and are more active. This could be a difficult way of pointing out a female but you could try!
6. Check out: One theory says that you can introduce a known female into the tank and watch for the reaction of fish. Males will check out the new fish but the females will show no interest!
The only way you can learn to spot male and female goldfish is by closely observing known males and females and noticing their various traits. A pet shop could be a nice place to learn this.
During spawning season it will be easier because the male will follow and nudge the female relentlessly sometimes even bruising and injuring the female. Finally, it’s only your experience that will give you any degree of confidence of judging the sexes by looking at them in a tank. Difficult but definitely not impossible!
Ong Hui Woo
http://www.tothefish.com
by: Ong Hui Woo
Have you wondered if your Goldfish is a male or female? At a glance, they may all look the same. But if you are into breeding Goldfish, you better not have all males inside the tank.
These are some methods that can be used to recognize the sexes of Goldfish, but even these are useless unless the fish are at least a year old, i.e., have attained sexual maturity.
1. Midline ridge: male goldfish have a ridge running through the back of pelvic fins to their vent opening on the underside. The ridge is either completely missing or smaller in females.
2. Firmness of abdomen: The area between pelvic and anal fins is pliable for females but very firm for males.
3. Shape of the vent: Though difficult to figure out, the female vent is rounder and convex, whereas the male vent is thinner and concave.
4. Shape of the pectoral fins: Male pectoral fins are pointed with stiffer leading ray and female pectorals are rounded, shorter with finer front fin ray.
5. Features: females are brighter colored and are more active. This could be a difficult way of pointing out a female but you could try!
6. Check out: One theory says that you can introduce a known female into the tank and watch for the reaction of fish. Males will check out the new fish but the females will show no interest!
The only way you can learn to spot male and female goldfish is by closely observing known males and females and noticing their various traits. A pet shop could be a nice place to learn this.
During spawning season it will be easier because the male will follow and nudge the female relentlessly sometimes even bruising and injuring the female. Finally, it’s only your experience that will give you any degree of confidence of judging the sexes by looking at them in a tank. Difficult but definitely not impossible!
Ong Hui Woo
http://www.tothefish.com
Dealing with a Jumping Dog, or "Jump up, jump up and get down!"
Dealing with a Jumping Dog, or "Jump up, jump up and get down!"
by: Martin Olliver
Often it’s ok for a dog to jump on its owner, but awkward and even harmful when he jumps up on others, such as other family members or friends. This can be confusing for the dog, but a well-trained dog can quite happily learn never to jump on strangers, and when it’s ok and to jump on you (playtimes, for example). A dog jumping up on a child can be a frightening experience, especially when the dog becomes taller than the child when he rears up. A dog jumping up on strangers is always a bad look.
During greetings, always try to prevent your dog from jumping up in the first place. Put your hand (or both hands) out in front of you and hold still. A trained dog will be able to respond to this gesture, without any verbal commands, and realize that it should stay down. If he gets down on his own accord, then start using the “down” command to accompany the behavior. Ideally, you always want the dog to perform the correct behavior first before using a verbal command, so they have some action to associate it with.
For most, this type of prevention does not work right away, especially for puppies that lack enough formal training. You’ll have to know how to react when your dog starts jumping up. Mostly, this involves what NOT to do. For example, don’t be over-enthusiastic during your greetings. This obviously reinforces the behavior. And do not forcefully push the dog away from you. They interpret this as a form of playful engagement. The result: dogs always push back. It’s instinctive (and the same principle is the reason for the majority of cases where dogs pull on leashes - they are encouraged by the force exerted on them).
Turn your back and ignore the dog. And calmly ask him to sit. When he has calmed down, and ideally responded to the sit command, then you can turn and greet the dog. If it starts jumping again, repeat the process. Be patient, this is where you get to send a message mainly through your body language, and the dog will surely take many trials to receive it. Often it is recommended that you stick your knee up and put the dog off balance, which is almost a reflex reaction. Turning your back and stonewalling is better if you can manage.
One of the absolute best suggestions I can give is to always greet a calm dog “at its level.” Squat or kneel down, and open your palms open toward the dog. This is a non-threatening posture that dogs very quickly associate will impending praise. We all like when others try to meet us on our level. Dogs are no different in this respect. But make sure they earn it first!
Avoidance is your best bet when introducing new people into your house. If you have established your position as the dominant member of your pack, then your dog should never be allowed to position himself in front of you when the front door opens. Time for you to become the Alpha Dog if that’s the case, which is means more training for you.
by: Martin Olliver
Often it’s ok for a dog to jump on its owner, but awkward and even harmful when he jumps up on others, such as other family members or friends. This can be confusing for the dog, but a well-trained dog can quite happily learn never to jump on strangers, and when it’s ok and to jump on you (playtimes, for example). A dog jumping up on a child can be a frightening experience, especially when the dog becomes taller than the child when he rears up. A dog jumping up on strangers is always a bad look.
During greetings, always try to prevent your dog from jumping up in the first place. Put your hand (or both hands) out in front of you and hold still. A trained dog will be able to respond to this gesture, without any verbal commands, and realize that it should stay down. If he gets down on his own accord, then start using the “down” command to accompany the behavior. Ideally, you always want the dog to perform the correct behavior first before using a verbal command, so they have some action to associate it with.
For most, this type of prevention does not work right away, especially for puppies that lack enough formal training. You’ll have to know how to react when your dog starts jumping up. Mostly, this involves what NOT to do. For example, don’t be over-enthusiastic during your greetings. This obviously reinforces the behavior. And do not forcefully push the dog away from you. They interpret this as a form of playful engagement. The result: dogs always push back. It’s instinctive (and the same principle is the reason for the majority of cases where dogs pull on leashes - they are encouraged by the force exerted on them).
Turn your back and ignore the dog. And calmly ask him to sit. When he has calmed down, and ideally responded to the sit command, then you can turn and greet the dog. If it starts jumping again, repeat the process. Be patient, this is where you get to send a message mainly through your body language, and the dog will surely take many trials to receive it. Often it is recommended that you stick your knee up and put the dog off balance, which is almost a reflex reaction. Turning your back and stonewalling is better if you can manage.
One of the absolute best suggestions I can give is to always greet a calm dog “at its level.” Squat or kneel down, and open your palms open toward the dog. This is a non-threatening posture that dogs very quickly associate will impending praise. We all like when others try to meet us on our level. Dogs are no different in this respect. But make sure they earn it first!
Avoidance is your best bet when introducing new people into your house. If you have established your position as the dominant member of your pack, then your dog should never be allowed to position himself in front of you when the front door opens. Time for you to become the Alpha Dog if that’s the case, which is means more training for you.
Choosing a Dog Breed: Which Breed of Dog is Right for You?
Choosing a Dog Breed: Which Breed of Dog is Right for You?
by: Valerie Goettsch
If you are considering getting a dog, it’s wise to explore the characteristics of different breeds of dogs to determine which one is right for you and your family. You’ll want to find a dog that goes with your personality, lifestyle, and pocketbook. The importance of choosing the right breed cannot be emphasized enough because a major cause of issues between dogs and owners revolves around unsuitability between the two. For example, an avid gardener probably would not be happy with a Fox Terrier, which is bred to dig vermin from their underground burrows. He’s born to dig up the garden!
So how do you choose the right breed? Let’s look at some key considerations:
What kind of experience is required? Some breeds like Border Collies are strong willed by nature and will challenge you for leadership. An experienced dog owner would likely do better with them. However, the Smooth Collie and Bearded Collie are easier to train and are suitable for new dog owners.
How is the Breed with Children? If you have kids or your dog will be around them, it’s important to get a dog that does well with children. More importantly, you need to teach your children how to handle the dog properly. Even the most easygoing and tolerant breed of dog can bite if it is hurt or frightened.
Size – Size DOES matter, when it comes to choosing the right dog breed. Do you have a house with a large yard, or an apartment or condo? Do you want to take your dog with you when you travel? Are you willing to clean up after a large dog? Do you want a dog to cuddle on the couch with you?
Exercise Requirements – With the exception of a few, almost all breeds enjoy brisk exercise. Do you have time to walk your dog regularly? Does the breed need daily vigorous exercise to prevent it from being hyper? If you work long hours you may be happier with a dog with lower exercise requirements.
Grooming and Coat – As for grooming, dog breeds run the gamut. Some have no-fuss coats and need occasional brushing, some breeds require regular trips to the groomer, and others fall in between. Think about the time and money you are prepared to spend on brushing and combing your dog and groomer visits, if required to keep your dog stylish.
Shedding – Unfortunately, there is no such thing as a truly non-shedding dog. However, there are breeds that shed less than others. Some breeds shed profusely, particularly at certain times of the year. Consider possible allergies and the amount of vacuuming you are willing to do before you settle on a breed.
Ease of Training – Typically only really little dogs, like toy dogs, don’t require much training other than potty training. Some breeds, such as Jack Russell Terriers, are strong-willed and harder to train. This is something else to consider when narrowing down your breed.
Sociability – How do you see your dog behaving around strangers? Do you want a happy-go-lucky dog that is friendly to all, or a more reserved dog that barks to alert you when strangers come to your door?
Now that you have answered some important questions, research the characteristics of the breeds you are considering to find the best fit for you. Check your library, bookstores and the American Kennel Club for profiles of breeds. Taking time to do your research will pay off tenfold, and you will have a great companion for years to come.
by: Valerie Goettsch
If you are considering getting a dog, it’s wise to explore the characteristics of different breeds of dogs to determine which one is right for you and your family. You’ll want to find a dog that goes with your personality, lifestyle, and pocketbook. The importance of choosing the right breed cannot be emphasized enough because a major cause of issues between dogs and owners revolves around unsuitability between the two. For example, an avid gardener probably would not be happy with a Fox Terrier, which is bred to dig vermin from their underground burrows. He’s born to dig up the garden!
So how do you choose the right breed? Let’s look at some key considerations:
What kind of experience is required? Some breeds like Border Collies are strong willed by nature and will challenge you for leadership. An experienced dog owner would likely do better with them. However, the Smooth Collie and Bearded Collie are easier to train and are suitable for new dog owners.
How is the Breed with Children? If you have kids or your dog will be around them, it’s important to get a dog that does well with children. More importantly, you need to teach your children how to handle the dog properly. Even the most easygoing and tolerant breed of dog can bite if it is hurt or frightened.
Size – Size DOES matter, when it comes to choosing the right dog breed. Do you have a house with a large yard, or an apartment or condo? Do you want to take your dog with you when you travel? Are you willing to clean up after a large dog? Do you want a dog to cuddle on the couch with you?
Exercise Requirements – With the exception of a few, almost all breeds enjoy brisk exercise. Do you have time to walk your dog regularly? Does the breed need daily vigorous exercise to prevent it from being hyper? If you work long hours you may be happier with a dog with lower exercise requirements.
Grooming and Coat – As for grooming, dog breeds run the gamut. Some have no-fuss coats and need occasional brushing, some breeds require regular trips to the groomer, and others fall in between. Think about the time and money you are prepared to spend on brushing and combing your dog and groomer visits, if required to keep your dog stylish.
Shedding – Unfortunately, there is no such thing as a truly non-shedding dog. However, there are breeds that shed less than others. Some breeds shed profusely, particularly at certain times of the year. Consider possible allergies and the amount of vacuuming you are willing to do before you settle on a breed.
Ease of Training – Typically only really little dogs, like toy dogs, don’t require much training other than potty training. Some breeds, such as Jack Russell Terriers, are strong-willed and harder to train. This is something else to consider when narrowing down your breed.
Sociability – How do you see your dog behaving around strangers? Do you want a happy-go-lucky dog that is friendly to all, or a more reserved dog that barks to alert you when strangers come to your door?
Now that you have answered some important questions, research the characteristics of the breeds you are considering to find the best fit for you. Check your library, bookstores and the American Kennel Club for profiles of breeds. Taking time to do your research will pay off tenfold, and you will have a great companion for years to come.
Hollywood – Gone To The Dogs?
Hollywood – Gone To The Dogs?
by: Kirsten Hawkins
There is no question that people in America love dogs. One look at popular culture in our country will prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that Americans have a love affair with dogs. Movies and TV shows about dogs go in and out of popularity and stories like Old Yeller and Where the Red Fern Grows are considered timeless classics. Only in America, however, do dogs manage to achieve celebrity status.
Rin Tin Tin
Rin Tin Tin was Hollywood’s first recognizable canine star. The German Shepherd was featured in 26 films for Warner Brothers Pictures and is generally credited with having saved the studio from bankruptcy during the silent film era. The original Rin Tin Tin died in 1932 at the age of 13, but his bloodline and his fan club exist to this day.
Lassie
Ask someone to name a famous dog and you will probably get the name Lassie every time. The star of several television series, many movies, and the subject of countless books, Lassie is probably the most recognizable canine star in American TV and movie history. Interestingly, all of the dogs to portray Lassie over the years have been male. The original collie to portray Lassie was actually named Lad and was the star of the memorable original television series as well as several movies, most memorably the original version of Lassie Come Home.
Benji
In the 1970’s a would-be filmmaker named Joe Camp started pitching a “dog movie” around Hollywood. He was told repeatedly that the film would never work, so he decided to produce the film independently. Once the film wrapped Camp had new troubles because no distribution company would release the film. Again, Camp relied upon himself to distribute his family movie worldwide. Camp’s gamble paid off and Benji, starring a lovable mixed breed dog that was adopted from an animal shelter (the original Benji was the dog Higgins who had worked on the TV show Petticoat Junction) became a huge hit. Over the years there have been five Benji movies, television programs and specials, comics, and a ton of Benji merchandise.
by: Kirsten Hawkins
There is no question that people in America love dogs. One look at popular culture in our country will prove beyond a shadow of a doubt that Americans have a love affair with dogs. Movies and TV shows about dogs go in and out of popularity and stories like Old Yeller and Where the Red Fern Grows are considered timeless classics. Only in America, however, do dogs manage to achieve celebrity status.
Rin Tin Tin
Rin Tin Tin was Hollywood’s first recognizable canine star. The German Shepherd was featured in 26 films for Warner Brothers Pictures and is generally credited with having saved the studio from bankruptcy during the silent film era. The original Rin Tin Tin died in 1932 at the age of 13, but his bloodline and his fan club exist to this day.
Lassie
Ask someone to name a famous dog and you will probably get the name Lassie every time. The star of several television series, many movies, and the subject of countless books, Lassie is probably the most recognizable canine star in American TV and movie history. Interestingly, all of the dogs to portray Lassie over the years have been male. The original collie to portray Lassie was actually named Lad and was the star of the memorable original television series as well as several movies, most memorably the original version of Lassie Come Home.
Benji
In the 1970’s a would-be filmmaker named Joe Camp started pitching a “dog movie” around Hollywood. He was told repeatedly that the film would never work, so he decided to produce the film independently. Once the film wrapped Camp had new troubles because no distribution company would release the film. Again, Camp relied upon himself to distribute his family movie worldwide. Camp’s gamble paid off and Benji, starring a lovable mixed breed dog that was adopted from an animal shelter (the original Benji was the dog Higgins who had worked on the TV show Petticoat Junction) became a huge hit. Over the years there have been five Benji movies, television programs and specials, comics, and a ton of Benji merchandise.
Things You Should Know About Your Dog - But Don't Want To Talk About!
Things You Should Know About Your Dog - But Don't Want To Talk About!
by: Edwina Hanson
When you decided to get a dog, I'll bet you daydreamed about the great times you'd have with your new best friend. However, there are many things that you need to consider in order to keep your pooch happy and healthy. Things that perhaps you'd rather not even think about!
When you go to the veterinarian he may ask you to bring along a urine sample from your dog. How do you do this? Your dog surely won't be able to hit a sample bottle. The easiest way to accomplish this is to tape a polythene container to the end of a yard stick. While your dog is out doing his business, position the container underneath his urine stream. This is easier to do with male dogs than female dogs but you can usually get a sample with one or two tries. Your veterinarian will want as fresh a sample as possible so if you won't be taking the sample to the vet right away, keep it refrigerated until you bring it in. Your veterinarian will be checking the sample for a variety of things like bacteria and crystals. If bacteria is found it could mean that your dog has a urinary tract infection and will most likely require your dog to be put on a course of antibiotics. Crystals form in the urine whenever minerals bind together, there are several different kinds of crystals and these are most often treated with prescription diets.
If your veterinarian asks for a stool sample it could mean that he suspects that intestinal parasites are bothering your dog. They can get these by eating fecal matter from another affected animal, carcasses, or other unsavory things. You will want to bring in a fresh sample. The doctor will examine it under the microscope and look for telltale eggs of parasites. Commonest parasites are roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, and tapeworms. Several of today’s monthly heartworm medications also protect against roundworms and hookworms. If you live in the country or your dog is outside for much of the day, he may need to be treated with a tapeworm wormer on a quarterly basis. Other diseases like coccidia, can also be seen under the microscope from your dog’s stool sample.
What about anal glands? The anal glands are two small glands located just on the inside of your dog’s anus that secrete a foul smelling liquid. Usually the glands will be emptied when your dog defecates. Unfortunately, in some dogs, the anal glands become impacted and do not empty properly. If your dog is urinating more than usual or licking his hind quarters more often, there may be a problem with his anal glands. In this case it's important to make an appointment with your veterinarian who will check the anal glands by gloved touch. If the anal glands are full, he will be able to empty them manually. it is possiblen, however, to learn how to do this yourself at home. Some dogs require their anal glands be manually emptied regularly. Some owners have their dog’s anal glands surgically removed but if you choose to do this, discuss the possible outcomes with your veterinarian as there is often a risk of fecal incontinence if the surgery goes awry.
Occasionally in dogs, dandruff is just dandruff caused by skin allergies, nutritional deficiencies, or improper grooming. Sometimes, however, dandruff can be a sign of a parasite called mange of which there are a few different types:
a) Demodectic Mange is caused by a mite which all dogs have but are rarely adversely affected by it. Sometimes however, there can be an overabundance of these mites which causes skin irritation and hair loss.
b) Sarcoptic Mange (also known as scabies) is caused by another type of mite. A female mite buries herself in the dog’s skin and lays her eggs there. When the eggs hatch, the cycle begins again. This causes severe skin irritation and hair loss in dogs but is easily treatable.
c) Cheyletiella Mange is caused by a large mite that lives on the surface of the dog’s skin. This infestation is also known as 'walking dandruff'. This type of mange causes minor skin irritation but is easily treatable with topical medication.
So, now you can talk about those unpleasant things! It's important that you are properly educated and can recognize signs and symptoms so that you keep your dog as healthy as he can be.
by: Edwina Hanson
When you decided to get a dog, I'll bet you daydreamed about the great times you'd have with your new best friend. However, there are many things that you need to consider in order to keep your pooch happy and healthy. Things that perhaps you'd rather not even think about!
When you go to the veterinarian he may ask you to bring along a urine sample from your dog. How do you do this? Your dog surely won't be able to hit a sample bottle. The easiest way to accomplish this is to tape a polythene container to the end of a yard stick. While your dog is out doing his business, position the container underneath his urine stream. This is easier to do with male dogs than female dogs but you can usually get a sample with one or two tries. Your veterinarian will want as fresh a sample as possible so if you won't be taking the sample to the vet right away, keep it refrigerated until you bring it in. Your veterinarian will be checking the sample for a variety of things like bacteria and crystals. If bacteria is found it could mean that your dog has a urinary tract infection and will most likely require your dog to be put on a course of antibiotics. Crystals form in the urine whenever minerals bind together, there are several different kinds of crystals and these are most often treated with prescription diets.
If your veterinarian asks for a stool sample it could mean that he suspects that intestinal parasites are bothering your dog. They can get these by eating fecal matter from another affected animal, carcasses, or other unsavory things. You will want to bring in a fresh sample. The doctor will examine it under the microscope and look for telltale eggs of parasites. Commonest parasites are roundworms, hookworms, whipworms, and tapeworms. Several of today’s monthly heartworm medications also protect against roundworms and hookworms. If you live in the country or your dog is outside for much of the day, he may need to be treated with a tapeworm wormer on a quarterly basis. Other diseases like coccidia, can also be seen under the microscope from your dog’s stool sample.
What about anal glands? The anal glands are two small glands located just on the inside of your dog’s anus that secrete a foul smelling liquid. Usually the glands will be emptied when your dog defecates. Unfortunately, in some dogs, the anal glands become impacted and do not empty properly. If your dog is urinating more than usual or licking his hind quarters more often, there may be a problem with his anal glands. In this case it's important to make an appointment with your veterinarian who will check the anal glands by gloved touch. If the anal glands are full, he will be able to empty them manually. it is possiblen, however, to learn how to do this yourself at home. Some dogs require their anal glands be manually emptied regularly. Some owners have their dog’s anal glands surgically removed but if you choose to do this, discuss the possible outcomes with your veterinarian as there is often a risk of fecal incontinence if the surgery goes awry.
Occasionally in dogs, dandruff is just dandruff caused by skin allergies, nutritional deficiencies, or improper grooming. Sometimes, however, dandruff can be a sign of a parasite called mange of which there are a few different types:
a) Demodectic Mange is caused by a mite which all dogs have but are rarely adversely affected by it. Sometimes however, there can be an overabundance of these mites which causes skin irritation and hair loss.
b) Sarcoptic Mange (also known as scabies) is caused by another type of mite. A female mite buries herself in the dog’s skin and lays her eggs there. When the eggs hatch, the cycle begins again. This causes severe skin irritation and hair loss in dogs but is easily treatable.
c) Cheyletiella Mange is caused by a large mite that lives on the surface of the dog’s skin. This infestation is also known as 'walking dandruff'. This type of mange causes minor skin irritation but is easily treatable with topical medication.
So, now you can talk about those unpleasant things! It's important that you are properly educated and can recognize signs and symptoms so that you keep your dog as healthy as he can be.
Let's Talk About Vaccines - Everyone Else Is!
Let's Talk About Vaccines - Everyone Else Is!
by: Connie Limon
There is no universal protocol for canine vaccination schedules. Many vets recommend more vaccinations than most dogs require to be protected from contagious diseases. A lot of vets use the vaccination schedule they receive with the vaccinations they buy from drug companies. Vets are now realizing to trust vaccine makers may not be the best thing to do. Vaccine makers are in the business of selling vaccines.
There are a number of things pet owners can do to make sure their dogs are protected against contagious diseases without overvaccinating. You need to learn about the diseases the vaccines defend your dog against. Before you allow your vet to vaccinated, ask your vet about the disease it prevents. What is its incidence? How is it transmitted? Is it more prevalent in your particular area? Ask your vet is the disease treatable, and if so, how many dogs recover? If you find out the disease kills many dogs who get it and the virus is everywhere, you should probably authorize your vet to vaccinate your dog against that disease. If you find out a particular disease is very prevalent in your area, you should probably authorize your vet to vaccinate your dog against that disease in addition to other appropriate vaccines.
A list of vaccines for dogs that most experts agree puppies and dogs should be protected against - diseases that are highly contagious and potentially fatal would include:
Canine Parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2) Canine distemper virus (CDV) Canine adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2) Rabies virus (RV)
If you are concerned about overvaccination be sure to have your puppies vaccinated against distemper, parvo, and adenovirus, not before six weeks, and at least once after the age of 12 weeks, and a rabies vaccine given after 16 weeks. About two weeks after the last vaccination with distemper, parvo, and adenovirus, ask for a vaccine titer test to see if your puppy has been successfully immunized.
Other vaccine tips you need to remember:
Use vaccine titer tests to see if your dog is adequately immunized against the diseases that most experts aggree puppies and dogs should be protected against. These are diseases that are highly contagious and potentially fatal.
Don't use low-cost clinics for your dog's vaccinations (unless the clinic is operated by a professional you know and trust). Instead make a relationship with a vet who will take time with you, who will ask your about your dog's health history, answer your questions about the benefits and risks of various vaccines and recommend an individualized vaccination schedule for your dog that takes into consideration his lifestyle and environment.
Take your dog to the vet at least once a year.
Do not vaccinate dogs who suffer from chronic or acute health problems, running a high temperaturem, or who have a history of vaccine reactions. Do not vacciante elderly dogs just because if your dog has been vaccinated many times in the younger years, he is probably immunized against disease as much as he can be.
This article is free to publish with the resource box.
by: Connie Limon
There is no universal protocol for canine vaccination schedules. Many vets recommend more vaccinations than most dogs require to be protected from contagious diseases. A lot of vets use the vaccination schedule they receive with the vaccinations they buy from drug companies. Vets are now realizing to trust vaccine makers may not be the best thing to do. Vaccine makers are in the business of selling vaccines.
There are a number of things pet owners can do to make sure their dogs are protected against contagious diseases without overvaccinating. You need to learn about the diseases the vaccines defend your dog against. Before you allow your vet to vaccinated, ask your vet about the disease it prevents. What is its incidence? How is it transmitted? Is it more prevalent in your particular area? Ask your vet is the disease treatable, and if so, how many dogs recover? If you find out the disease kills many dogs who get it and the virus is everywhere, you should probably authorize your vet to vaccinate your dog against that disease. If you find out a particular disease is very prevalent in your area, you should probably authorize your vet to vaccinate your dog against that disease in addition to other appropriate vaccines.
A list of vaccines for dogs that most experts agree puppies and dogs should be protected against - diseases that are highly contagious and potentially fatal would include:
Canine Parvovirus type 2 (CPV-2) Canine distemper virus (CDV) Canine adenovirus type 2 (CAV-2) Rabies virus (RV)
If you are concerned about overvaccination be sure to have your puppies vaccinated against distemper, parvo, and adenovirus, not before six weeks, and at least once after the age of 12 weeks, and a rabies vaccine given after 16 weeks. About two weeks after the last vaccination with distemper, parvo, and adenovirus, ask for a vaccine titer test to see if your puppy has been successfully immunized.
Other vaccine tips you need to remember:
Use vaccine titer tests to see if your dog is adequately immunized against the diseases that most experts aggree puppies and dogs should be protected against. These are diseases that are highly contagious and potentially fatal.
Don't use low-cost clinics for your dog's vaccinations (unless the clinic is operated by a professional you know and trust). Instead make a relationship with a vet who will take time with you, who will ask your about your dog's health history, answer your questions about the benefits and risks of various vaccines and recommend an individualized vaccination schedule for your dog that takes into consideration his lifestyle and environment.
Take your dog to the vet at least once a year.
Do not vaccinate dogs who suffer from chronic or acute health problems, running a high temperaturem, or who have a history of vaccine reactions. Do not vacciante elderly dogs just because if your dog has been vaccinated many times in the younger years, he is probably immunized against disease as much as he can be.
This article is free to publish with the resource box.
Stop The Itchy Fleas!
Stop The Itchy Fleas!
by: Disney Pieces
“No, your dog is not pregnant but she has fleas”, said the vet.
“Excuse me?”
(She lifts up the dog’s tail) “You see all these fleas”
I was stunned. I give my dog flea preventative every month! She bathes monthly and she rarely goes outside. So how could she get fleas?
I learned that all the things I thought mattered did not. After all, what good is flea preventative if it doesn’t work?
Based on my experience, I am going to tell you how to treat and prevent dog fleas.
First, an ounce of prevention is worth…well you know the rest.
It’s easier to prevent fleas than to treat them. I recommend using a high quality flea preventative monthly. Avoid the cheap ones you find in the grocery store and the flea collars. You want to get a treatment that is applied directly to your dog’s skin in between the shoulder blades.
If your dog gets fleas, you not only have to worry about getting the fleas off of your dog, but you have to get the fleas out of the environment. That means everywhere your dog has run, jumped, rested or thumped is full of flea eggs that you have to eliminate.
When you notice that your dog has fleas (If your dog has a lot of fleas, they will be easy to spot. But if it’s only a few fleas you will need to check under your dog’s belly. Then look under their tail)
If you notice fleas, it’s time to act quickly. First you need to treat your dog. Your dog needs a Capstar pill which is a pill that immediately kills all adult fleas within a half hour. You can get this from your vet which will run you about $7 a pill, or you can check out some online stores where you can find it for $14 for a package of 6 pills.
After you apply the Capstar you need to follow up with a flea preventative. This is because the environment still has fleas and you don’t want your dog to get re-infested during the treatment process. Though it can get pricey, I would recommend using Frontline or Advantage.
Next you need to treat the environment. Remove all the dog bedding and immediately wash it. Vacuum all the floors where the dog has had free run; after you vaccum throw away the vacuum bag because it probably contains flea eggs. Next you need to get your pet out of the house and spray your house down. I would recommend getting a bottle of Knockout ES from your vet. Spray all the carpet, all couch cushions, under all furniture and all nooks and crannies. If you use Knockout ES you will need to leave the house for a few hours after you spray because it is very strong.
Now you should have your dog and the environment under control. But there is still a chance that flea eggs did not get treated and are ready to hatch so in 2-3 weeks you need to repeat the environment treating. In 4 weeks, reapply toe Frontline or Advantage to your dog.
by: Disney Pieces
“No, your dog is not pregnant but she has fleas”, said the vet.
“Excuse me?”
(She lifts up the dog’s tail) “You see all these fleas”
I was stunned. I give my dog flea preventative every month! She bathes monthly and she rarely goes outside. So how could she get fleas?
I learned that all the things I thought mattered did not. After all, what good is flea preventative if it doesn’t work?
Based on my experience, I am going to tell you how to treat and prevent dog fleas.
First, an ounce of prevention is worth…well you know the rest.
It’s easier to prevent fleas than to treat them. I recommend using a high quality flea preventative monthly. Avoid the cheap ones you find in the grocery store and the flea collars. You want to get a treatment that is applied directly to your dog’s skin in between the shoulder blades.
If your dog gets fleas, you not only have to worry about getting the fleas off of your dog, but you have to get the fleas out of the environment. That means everywhere your dog has run, jumped, rested or thumped is full of flea eggs that you have to eliminate.
When you notice that your dog has fleas (If your dog has a lot of fleas, they will be easy to spot. But if it’s only a few fleas you will need to check under your dog’s belly. Then look under their tail)
If you notice fleas, it’s time to act quickly. First you need to treat your dog. Your dog needs a Capstar pill which is a pill that immediately kills all adult fleas within a half hour. You can get this from your vet which will run you about $7 a pill, or you can check out some online stores where you can find it for $14 for a package of 6 pills.
After you apply the Capstar you need to follow up with a flea preventative. This is because the environment still has fleas and you don’t want your dog to get re-infested during the treatment process. Though it can get pricey, I would recommend using Frontline or Advantage.
Next you need to treat the environment. Remove all the dog bedding and immediately wash it. Vacuum all the floors where the dog has had free run; after you vaccum throw away the vacuum bag because it probably contains flea eggs. Next you need to get your pet out of the house and spray your house down. I would recommend getting a bottle of Knockout ES from your vet. Spray all the carpet, all couch cushions, under all furniture and all nooks and crannies. If you use Knockout ES you will need to leave the house for a few hours after you spray because it is very strong.
Now you should have your dog and the environment under control. But there is still a chance that flea eggs did not get treated and are ready to hatch so in 2-3 weeks you need to repeat the environment treating. In 4 weeks, reapply toe Frontline or Advantage to your dog.
Pet Store One-Stop-Shop
Pet Store One-Stop-Shop
by: Anna Josephs
Pets are the most beautiful gift. Many of us are found of pets and like to have at least a single pet in our house. Pet brings out your tender and loving site. Now every breed of pets is available at your near Pet Store.
Are you planning to have pet in your house then first step is to find the best pet store in your city. Make sure that you have entered the right store, because not all pet stores can give you the service, guidance and support you need.
Before buying just see to that store should be very clean, odor-free and spacious facility. You will find many of pet stores are overcrowd, never buy from such overcrowd pet store they may carry some diseases.
We always want to buy pet that were raised in a healthy, hygienic and roomy facility to make sure that they do not carry any diseases. Many pet stores are one-stop-shop where you can buy everything, from pet food to and other pet products.
Pet store should be consumer-oriented so that you can get return policy on supplies, and provide a good 'warranty' on pets. Many of working pet owners is not able to spend more time to pet because of their busy schedule, these considerations are very important.
It is good to buy pet from your near by area where you live, or is at least on the way from where you work place. So that in case if any pet emergency is there you can take your pet for treatment.
The pet stores assure you veterinary care whenever possible. It’s very easy to buy pet but raising it in your house as part of your family is very difficult. Be sure that all other in our family treat pet as family member. Today only visit your nearest pet store to choose a pet for yourself.
by: Anna Josephs
Pets are the most beautiful gift. Many of us are found of pets and like to have at least a single pet in our house. Pet brings out your tender and loving site. Now every breed of pets is available at your near Pet Store.
Are you planning to have pet in your house then first step is to find the best pet store in your city. Make sure that you have entered the right store, because not all pet stores can give you the service, guidance and support you need.
Before buying just see to that store should be very clean, odor-free and spacious facility. You will find many of pet stores are overcrowd, never buy from such overcrowd pet store they may carry some diseases.
We always want to buy pet that were raised in a healthy, hygienic and roomy facility to make sure that they do not carry any diseases. Many pet stores are one-stop-shop where you can buy everything, from pet food to and other pet products.
Pet store should be consumer-oriented so that you can get return policy on supplies, and provide a good 'warranty' on pets. Many of working pet owners is not able to spend more time to pet because of their busy schedule, these considerations are very important.
It is good to buy pet from your near by area where you live, or is at least on the way from where you work place. So that in case if any pet emergency is there you can take your pet for treatment.
The pet stores assure you veterinary care whenever possible. It’s very easy to buy pet but raising it in your house as part of your family is very difficult. Be sure that all other in our family treat pet as family member. Today only visit your nearest pet store to choose a pet for yourself.
Dogs And Pets Provide Health Benefits
Dogs And Pets Provide Health Benefits
by: Robert Benson
Do dogs provide health benefits? Believe it or not they do! Did you know that owning a dog and pet ownership in general, can help a person in many ways? Owning a pet can improve your mental wellness, reduce your visits to the doctor, improve your cardiovascular health and allow for faster recovery time from surgery as well as higher survival rates. Recent research suggests that dogs may be able to detect cancer on a person's breath! Lets' explore these amazing health benefits of pet ownership:
It has been proven that dog owners have lower blood pressure and cholesterol levels than non-dog owners. These factors, in turn, reduce the chance of cardiovascular diseases. In fact, just stroking a pet has long been known to reduce blood pressure. Furthermore, a study from the New York State University concluded that these benefits continue even without the pet being present!
Hospital studies have shown that senior citizens and recent post-op patients respond better to treatment and recover faster while in contact with dogs and other therapy animals. Did you know that dog owners have a greater chance to survive a serious illness than non-dog owners? In fact, a study revealed that a pet affected a person's survival rate even more than the presence or company of family members or friends!
Studies conducted at Cambridge and UCLA concluded that there is a direct correlation between pet ownership and improved overall health, which leads to fewer visits to the doctor. The Journal of American Geriatrics Society notes that pet ownership has a positive effect on a senior's physical and emotional well being. Additionally, a Medicare study of elderly patients also shows that people who own a dog have fewer doctor visits than patients who do not.
Pet owners have better emotional health and mental wellness than people who do not own a pet. Pets offer unconditional love and affection and their presence alone helps reduce loneliness. For people who are isolated, disabled or handicapped, a pet offers friendship and can even add a element of safety to their lives. Dogs are used as a form of therapy in hospices, nursing homes and as companions for the disabled and blind. In fact, there are studies that prove that people with a major illness fight the stress of having the illness better by having a dog as a pet.
There is new research that suggests that dogs may be able to detect certain types of cancer. Researchers at the Pine Street Foundation in San Anselmo, California and the Polish Academy of Sciences exposed dogs to breath samples from breast and lung cancer patients and samples from healthy people. They claim that the dogs were able to detect cancer with astonishing results and accuracy. The dogs were able to identify 99% of lung cancer breath samples (which included early stage cancer patients) as well as 88% of breast cancer samples. The study, which has been met with skepticism, will be released early in 2006 and published in the March edition of the Journal for Integrative Cancer Therapies. Experts agree that this holds promise, but must be evaluated and researched further.
As you can see pet ownership or having a dog comes with many benefits for an individual. Owning a pet encourages social interaction, reduces stress levels, boosts self-confidence and self-esteem and encourages exercise. Having a pet is a great investment, not only in the joy and pleasure that the animal brings into your life, but the many health benefits that come with the territory!
by: Robert Benson
Do dogs provide health benefits? Believe it or not they do! Did you know that owning a dog and pet ownership in general, can help a person in many ways? Owning a pet can improve your mental wellness, reduce your visits to the doctor, improve your cardiovascular health and allow for faster recovery time from surgery as well as higher survival rates. Recent research suggests that dogs may be able to detect cancer on a person's breath! Lets' explore these amazing health benefits of pet ownership:
It has been proven that dog owners have lower blood pressure and cholesterol levels than non-dog owners. These factors, in turn, reduce the chance of cardiovascular diseases. In fact, just stroking a pet has long been known to reduce blood pressure. Furthermore, a study from the New York State University concluded that these benefits continue even without the pet being present!
Hospital studies have shown that senior citizens and recent post-op patients respond better to treatment and recover faster while in contact with dogs and other therapy animals. Did you know that dog owners have a greater chance to survive a serious illness than non-dog owners? In fact, a study revealed that a pet affected a person's survival rate even more than the presence or company of family members or friends!
Studies conducted at Cambridge and UCLA concluded that there is a direct correlation between pet ownership and improved overall health, which leads to fewer visits to the doctor. The Journal of American Geriatrics Society notes that pet ownership has a positive effect on a senior's physical and emotional well being. Additionally, a Medicare study of elderly patients also shows that people who own a dog have fewer doctor visits than patients who do not.
Pet owners have better emotional health and mental wellness than people who do not own a pet. Pets offer unconditional love and affection and their presence alone helps reduce loneliness. For people who are isolated, disabled or handicapped, a pet offers friendship and can even add a element of safety to their lives. Dogs are used as a form of therapy in hospices, nursing homes and as companions for the disabled and blind. In fact, there are studies that prove that people with a major illness fight the stress of having the illness better by having a dog as a pet.
There is new research that suggests that dogs may be able to detect certain types of cancer. Researchers at the Pine Street Foundation in San Anselmo, California and the Polish Academy of Sciences exposed dogs to breath samples from breast and lung cancer patients and samples from healthy people. They claim that the dogs were able to detect cancer with astonishing results and accuracy. The dogs were able to identify 99% of lung cancer breath samples (which included early stage cancer patients) as well as 88% of breast cancer samples. The study, which has been met with skepticism, will be released early in 2006 and published in the March edition of the Journal for Integrative Cancer Therapies. Experts agree that this holds promise, but must be evaluated and researched further.
As you can see pet ownership or having a dog comes with many benefits for an individual. Owning a pet encourages social interaction, reduces stress levels, boosts self-confidence and self-esteem and encourages exercise. Having a pet is a great investment, not only in the joy and pleasure that the animal brings into your life, but the many health benefits that come with the territory!
Fido's Fortress: Puppy Proofing Your Home
Fido's Fortress: Puppy Proofing Your Home
by: Jennifer Jordan
It’s safe to say, my dog has me well trained. My “best friend” since she was six weeks old, my precious pup is now a fourteen year old peke-a-poo, missing teeth, missing vision, and missing manners. She growls at me whenever she wants MY dinner, she awakes me at three a.m. so I can give her a drink from my glass and free her from having to walk the ten steps to her water bowl, and she bites me whenever I accidentally touch her as she sleeps in our bed (90 percent of the bed, she has decided, belongs to her ten pound frame). Yes, it’s fair to say, when it comes to my dog, I am nothing if not obedient.
I’d like to say it hasn’t always been like this; I’d like to claim that I once had the upper hand and behaved like, well, the superior species. But, the truth is, I never did. Even before I brought her home, I found myself running around and getting things ready for her arrival. I bought her everything she needed, stopping just short of getting her a diamond studded collar from Tiffany’s, and I puppy proofed my house; I puppy proofed my house like a maniac: there was no way my dog was going to get hurt in my, oh I’m sorry, her, home.
This brings me to the topic of puppy proofing. As essential as it is, it’s not that hard to overlook; new dog owners might find themselves forgetting to make a safe environment as they become so wrapped up simply in loving their puppy. Still, puppy proofing your house helps you assure that you will have a puppy to love. So, before you bring home your new bundle of joy, try to engage in the following:
Secure your cords: Like moths to flames, puppies have been known to flock towards electrical cords, placing them in their mouths, and chewing away. Not only does this ruin your cord, but it can give your puppy quite a shock. To avoid this, keep cords out of the area where your puppy will be. If it’s impossible to keep cords out completely – if your puppy is in the TV room, it might be hard to not have a cord for your plasma television – place them out of your puppy’s reach: hang them from something high, tape them to the wall, or purchase a wire cover.
Guard your Balcony: All puppies have some Christopher Columbus in them: they like to explore. While this is often harmless, when a puppy starts to explore high areas, such as a deck or upstairs balcony, they run the risk of falling. Since you probably won’t be able to keep an eye on your puppy twenty four hours a day, buying a balcony guard is your best bet. A balcony guard allows your puppy to explore higher areas all while assuring that he or she won’t suddenly be thrown off course.
Latch Your Cabinets: If there’s one thing puppies know how to do, it’s get into things they shouldn’t. Cabinets, particularly ones that house kitchen or bathroom trash, are prime goals for puppy pursuing. If successful in their venture, puppies can find things in cabinets that could harm them: household cleaners, chicken bones, mouse traps, bleach. Simply putting latches on your cabinets can assure your puppy won’t be able to open the door on this danger.
Hang Your Plants: I remember my dog, as a puppy, had an affinity for getting into plants. Sometimes she would dig them up, sometimes she would pee on them, and sometimes – mistaking them for a salad bar – she would eat them. This, turns out, wasn't a good idea: some plants are edible, but others can be poisonous. Your veterinarian can provide you with a list of plants that are harmful to pets, including Aloe Vera, tomato plants, rhododendron, English Ivy, and mistletoe. Instead of leaving these, or any plants, on ground level, hang them from the ceiling. Chances are your puppy won’t figure out how to use a ladder.
Puppy proofing your home can take time and money. But, it’s worth it all in the end. It helps us keep our best friend safe, which speaks to those of us who know that there is no such thing as “just a dog.”
by: Jennifer Jordan
It’s safe to say, my dog has me well trained. My “best friend” since she was six weeks old, my precious pup is now a fourteen year old peke-a-poo, missing teeth, missing vision, and missing manners. She growls at me whenever she wants MY dinner, she awakes me at three a.m. so I can give her a drink from my glass and free her from having to walk the ten steps to her water bowl, and she bites me whenever I accidentally touch her as she sleeps in our bed (90 percent of the bed, she has decided, belongs to her ten pound frame). Yes, it’s fair to say, when it comes to my dog, I am nothing if not obedient.
I’d like to say it hasn’t always been like this; I’d like to claim that I once had the upper hand and behaved like, well, the superior species. But, the truth is, I never did. Even before I brought her home, I found myself running around and getting things ready for her arrival. I bought her everything she needed, stopping just short of getting her a diamond studded collar from Tiffany’s, and I puppy proofed my house; I puppy proofed my house like a maniac: there was no way my dog was going to get hurt in my, oh I’m sorry, her, home.
This brings me to the topic of puppy proofing. As essential as it is, it’s not that hard to overlook; new dog owners might find themselves forgetting to make a safe environment as they become so wrapped up simply in loving their puppy. Still, puppy proofing your house helps you assure that you will have a puppy to love. So, before you bring home your new bundle of joy, try to engage in the following:
Secure your cords: Like moths to flames, puppies have been known to flock towards electrical cords, placing them in their mouths, and chewing away. Not only does this ruin your cord, but it can give your puppy quite a shock. To avoid this, keep cords out of the area where your puppy will be. If it’s impossible to keep cords out completely – if your puppy is in the TV room, it might be hard to not have a cord for your plasma television – place them out of your puppy’s reach: hang them from something high, tape them to the wall, or purchase a wire cover.
Guard your Balcony: All puppies have some Christopher Columbus in them: they like to explore. While this is often harmless, when a puppy starts to explore high areas, such as a deck or upstairs balcony, they run the risk of falling. Since you probably won’t be able to keep an eye on your puppy twenty four hours a day, buying a balcony guard is your best bet. A balcony guard allows your puppy to explore higher areas all while assuring that he or she won’t suddenly be thrown off course.
Latch Your Cabinets: If there’s one thing puppies know how to do, it’s get into things they shouldn’t. Cabinets, particularly ones that house kitchen or bathroom trash, are prime goals for puppy pursuing. If successful in their venture, puppies can find things in cabinets that could harm them: household cleaners, chicken bones, mouse traps, bleach. Simply putting latches on your cabinets can assure your puppy won’t be able to open the door on this danger.
Hang Your Plants: I remember my dog, as a puppy, had an affinity for getting into plants. Sometimes she would dig them up, sometimes she would pee on them, and sometimes – mistaking them for a salad bar – she would eat them. This, turns out, wasn't a good idea: some plants are edible, but others can be poisonous. Your veterinarian can provide you with a list of plants that are harmful to pets, including Aloe Vera, tomato plants, rhododendron, English Ivy, and mistletoe. Instead of leaving these, or any plants, on ground level, hang them from the ceiling. Chances are your puppy won’t figure out how to use a ladder.
Puppy proofing your home can take time and money. But, it’s worth it all in the end. It helps us keep our best friend safe, which speaks to those of us who know that there is no such thing as “just a dog.”
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